Sitting around our evening camp fire on Tuesday 23 September 1985, a hundred metres from Aroona Hut in the Flinders Ranges, we discussed our adventure thus far. Commencing at Cape Jervis on Anzac Day 1983, initially eleven in number, we had now walked about 1,000 kilometres along the built and proposed sections of the Heysen Trail. By the time we had reached Aroona Hut, in late May, we had been walking for a total of 50 days in five 10 day stages.

Long distance walking in rugged country is not conducive to late night chats around a campfire.

In that time our numbers had reduced to three, the bare minimum for walking safely in the Northern Flinders Ranges. Although I and my companions, Bob Nicolle and Dick Grant, had plenty of experiences to reflect upon in our journey thus far we retired early. The following morning we would commence our next ten day stage from Aroona Hut to Sliding Rock Mine. Long distance walking in rugged country is not conducive to late night chats around a campfire.

Rising early as was our custom we were soon following the Heysen Trail markers north. After just a kilometre or so we walked to the west off the Trail and deposited our packs at what would be a suitable campsite for that evening and proceeded to climb Walkandi Peak and then Mount Hayward on the Heysen Range. We reasoned from the start of the walk that it was likely we would walk the whole of the Heysen Trail just once and we would climb as many of the prominent peaks along the way as was practical. Some peaks would be climbed as they were on the route of the built sections of the Heysen Trail (Moon Hill, Mount Lofty, Mount Crawford), some were on or close to the route we were taking where the Trail was yet to be built (Smith Hill, Mount Cone, New Campbell Hill) and some were close to built sections of the Trail and difficult to resist (Wonoka Hill, Mount Aleck, Pompey Pillar, St Mary Peak). We had already climbed 40 peaks during the first five stages of the walk.

We also aimed to visit as many of the interesting and notable places we passed near. One such place was the Bookartoo ochre mine site high up on the western side of the Heysen Range, north of Walkandi Peak.

We walked west to the foothills of the Heysen Range and then south along a gradually ascending ridge that brought us to the top of the range at the summit of Walkandi Peak (~ 850 metres). After resting whilst enjoying the magnificent view to the east over Aroona Valley we walked south along the top of the range for a kilometre to the summit of Mount Hayward (865 metres).

Re-tracing our steps over and past Walkandi Peak we followed the meandering top of the range north, passing over Mount Barbara (~ 780 metres) and Mount Barloo (758 metres), before walking down a ridge to the west to the Bookartoo ochre mine.

Re-tracing our steps again we crossed over the Heysen Range at a saddle to the south of Mount Barloo and followed a ridge to the south-east into the Aroona Valley, arriving at the Heysen Trail about a kilometre north of our packs and our campsite for that night.

We arrived back at our packs in the late afternoon after an exhausting but interesting start to the current stage.

The next morning we walked the short distance back to the Trail and proceeded north, passing Pigeon Bore and crossing Taring Saddle to enter the headwaters of Five Mile Creek. Later in the morning, after Five Mile Creek flowed to the west through the Heysen Range we crossed over a further saddle and entered the headwaters of Wild Dog Creek. Arriving opposite Mount Falkland we selected our next campsite and had lunch. As we were about to finish lunch and climb to the west to the summit of Mount Falkland renowned outback tourism operator Rex Ellis appeared from the north riding a camel, leading a party of customers, also riding camels.

After a brisk climb of 380 metres we reached the top of the Heysen Range and walked north to the end of the range at Mount Falkland (792 metres). After spending some time identifying the prominent features we were to reach in the coming days we returned to our campsite in time to inspect a nearby abandoned mine site and climb a nearby peak on the ABC Range (610 metres) before erecting our tents and preparing our evening meal. So far the weather had been fine and mild but there was a good chance of quite warm weather at that time of the year.

We set of the next morning with an air of excitement, for we would soon reach the northern end of the built section of the Heysen Trail at Parachilna Gorge, and perhaps the northern end of the Heysen Trail for the foreseeable future.

Although Bob, Dick and I had not walked extensively in the Northern Flinders Ranges before we were all skilled and experienced walkers, well equipped and with a sensible level of confidence in our abilities. Our route was carefully planned in advance and we left nothing to chance. The availability of 1:50,000 topographical maps for all but the very northern tip of the Flinders Ranges made the planning of our route in advance and following the planned route in the field relatively simple – knowing where we were at all times was something we were well practised in.

Soon after leaving our campsite the Trail passed over a saddle into the headwaters of a north flowing tributary of Parachilna Creek which we followed downstream for three kilometres to its junction with Parachilna Creek, also the northern trailhead of the Heysen Trail. After leaving the trailhead and walking downstream along Parachilna Creek, through Parachilna Gorge, for a short distance, we reached the junction of Parachilna Creek and Oratunga Creek. Turning north we commenced walking upstream along Oratunga Creek. After three kilometres of following the meandering creek bed we reached the junction of a major tributary flowing in from the north-east which we followed upstream. Several kilometres on we passed Aboriginal rock carvings on a vertical rock wall in a narrow part of the creek. After several more kilometres we decided we had reached the best point to leave the creek bed and commence the steep 225 metre climb to the summit of Mount Elkington. Selecting the best point to leave the creek bed was difficult due to heavy scrub encountered as we neared the headwaters of the creek. The ascent to the summit of Mount Elkington with still heavy food laden packs was challenging and we arrived at the summit (724 metres) in the late afternoon in an exhausted state. Our campsite that evening was on the other side of Mount Elkington at Breakneck Well. After leaving the summit after a short rest we followed a ridge north-east for two kilometres, and selected an attractive campsite near Breakneck Well in the early evening, with just enough light left in the day to erect our tents and commence the preparation of our evening meal.

The next morning we walked west through Breakneck Gorge to the Glass Gorge road which we followed to the south-east. After two hours walking we reached Blinman. An hour was spent inspecting the historic Blinman mine site, followed by showers at the Blinman Hotel. Blinman was also our mid stage food re-supply point.

After packing the food supplies and enjoying a pleasant lunch at the hotel we set out, via the Blinman War Memorial on the hill to the east of the town, for our campsite that evening at Artimore Ruins. After passing Whitford Well and crossing the Bunkers, climbing Mount Lucius (815 metres) in the process, we reached Artimore Ruins, and selected a campsite a 100 metres or so from the Ruins on the banks of Artimore Creek. We had plenty of time for a close inspection of the Ruins, with the stunning Patawarta Hill prominent just four kilometres to the north.

It was Bob’s habit to remark enthusiastically about each of our campsites, but his enthusiasm for this site, Dick and I agreed, was more than justified.

The next morning we were ready to leave a bit earlier than normal. Today was going to be a particularly interesting day as our route was to take us to Patawarta Hill. We followed a little used vehicle track north-west and after passing Pendulum Well our direction changed to the north. After crossing Home Rule Flat we entered Narina Pound through Patawarta Gap. Leaving the track we skirted to the east, around to the northern base of Patawerta Hill, selecting our next campsite just on lunch time. The weather was warm as, after lunch, we climbed the northern face of Mount Patawerta, aided by broad slabs of rock for much of the way to the summit.

The hour on the summit enabled us the opportunity to again survey the route ahead. The area we were in was relatively unknown to bushwalkers, a surprise considering its beauty. Despite the recognition of Patawarta Hill as an inspiration peak in the Flinders Ranges visitation to it and the area around it was minimal.

We returned to our campsite in good time to erect our tents and prepare our evening meal before nightfall.

The following morning we walked to the east until we reached Molkegna Bore on Magpie Creek from where we followed Magpie Creek downstream to its junction with Narina Creek. We continued north and then east along a rough track before selecting a spot for lunch. Immediately after lunch we left our packs and walked north along a series of ridges for four kilometres to the summit of Mount McFarlane (809 metres), overlooking the northern section of Narina Pound. After returning to our packs and continuing to follow the track to the east we again left our packs and climbed the nearby distinctive Ben Lomond (688 metres) in the late afternoon. This proved to be an excellent point from which we could plan our ascent of Mount Andre and the Cocks Comb the following day. After returning to our packs, in fading light, we walked north for two kilometres and selected a campsite adjacent to Midwerth Bore.

Day by day the weather was becoming increasingly warm and the weather forecasts I was able to hear on the small pocket radio I was carrying were indicating the trend would continue through to the end of the stage.

We carried our packs for only a kilometre the next morning before leaving them on the banks of Chambers Creek and starting up a steadily ascending ridge to the summit of Mount Andre. In two hours we reached the summit (~990 metres) and greeted with spectacular views to the north. The whole of the Gammon Plateau was visible, from Mount McKinley to the east and the isolated Mount Serle on the west.

Our first view of the Gammon Ranges whet our appetites for the next stage of our walk in the autumn of the following year. During the next stage our route was to cross the Gammon Ranges without descending, and include climbing Mount McKinley. Our first view of the Gammon Ranges was also an indication that our ultimate goal of Mount Babbage at the northern tip of the Flinders Ranges was becoming ever nearer.

From the summit we took the opportunity to plan our climb of Mount Hack the following day. Our next objective was to climb the Cocks Comb, just two kilometres to the west. After carefully navigating our way down the steep western face of Mount Andre and crossing a high saddle we reached the summit of the Cocks Comb (~ 960 metres). After a short break at the summit we selected another ridge to descend to our packs and enjoyed a late lunch.

Walking north-west along a track adjacent to Chambers Creek for several hours we reached our next campsite at Claypan Bore. Whilst we had anticipated the opportunity to top up our water supplies at the bore there was none to be had. Whilst we had plenty we would now be relying on the next opportunity to top up the following day at Rockwater on Sliding Rock Creek.

Again we carried our packs for only a short time the following morning, walking north for two and a half kilometres. At a planned spot in Main Gap we left our packs in a grove of trees and commenced our climb of Mount Hack, one of the highest peaks in the Northern Flinders Ranges. As forecast the temperature had continued to rise in the preceding days and was already over 30 degrees as we commenced the climb. Although we had been acclimatising to the higher temperatures since the commencement of the stage the ascent of Mount Hack was challenging. Two and half hours later we completed the 450 metre climb over several kilometres to the summit (1,086 metres). The views from the top were spectacular.

Apart from the excellent panorama north to the Gammon Plateau, Mount Hack is one of the few places in the Northern Flinders Ranges where both the plains and salt lakes on the eastern and western side of the Ranges can be seen. After returning to our packs for lunch in the early afternoon we headed north-west and then west through Warraweena Gap to Rockwater where we were able to top up our water supplies. The attractive area in the warm conditions caused us to tarry longer than had been planned. In the late afternoon, as the temperature commenced to drop we headed south.

It is fundamental of course that the Heysen Trail runs south to north or north to south along the Mount Lofty and Flinders Ranges. It was not uncommon however for our south to north walk to include routes that took us east and west, and to the south. This was to ensure we climbed as many of the significant peaks as we reasonably could as well as visiting interesting places. The southerly routes, when my companions noticed that we were walking south, generally brought good-natured derision. We followed a station track and selected a campsite three kilometres north of Old Warraweena.

The next morning we continued to walk south along the track to Yednudunga Well where we left the track and walked to the south-east towards Mount Tilley. An hour later we left our packs and scrambled up a steep ridge to the summit of Mount Tilley (1,018 metres). The temperature was warming quickly as we returned to our packs and then walked on to Old Warraweena where we carefully selected a shady spot for lunch.

Soon after lunch we reached the headwaters of Warioota Creek, which we were to follow downstream for the remainder of that day. We walked south-west for about an hour before the creek turned west, taking a tortuous route through a substantial range of hills. The gorge we now entered provided excellent walking and interest.

The heat of the afternoon sun was being concentrated by the stark bare walls of the gorge, making us thankful for the numerous pools of cool water in the bed of the creek and we stopped frequently to drink from them.

As we approached the end of the gorge in the late afternoon we left or packs and walked a short distance up a tributary entering from the east to a waterfall indicated on the map. The waterfall turned out to be a series of cascades, and we spent sufficient time enjoying them to allow time for Dick, who was feeling off-colour due to the heat, to have a dip in one of the deeper pools. Several kilometres down the Warioota Creek we selected a campsite adjacent to Dunbar Well.

We left our campsite earlier than usual the next morning to ensure we would not be late for our planned midday pick-up at the Sliding Rock Mine site. Several kilometres further down Warioota Creek we turned north and followed a bush track along the western edge of the range. Passing Mount Stuart to our east and Bob Mooney Hut we made good progress and arrived at Sliding Rock about 30 minutes before midday.

Our ten day walk had been completed without incident and we had travelled safely through an area which we hadn’t visited before. On the completion of each stage of the walk there was always a temptation to compare our experiences with those of the previous stages. We had now achieved three-quarters of the walk, and although this stage had been outstanding to me, all of the walk thus far had entirely exceeded my expectations.

We now had six months to plan our next expedition. Our sightings of the Gammon Ranges had strengthened our resolve to traverse them. It was obvious that route planning for the next stage would be absolutely crucial to its success.

Jump to content:

• Introduction – The First End-to-End walk of the Heysen Trail
• Stage One – Cape Jervis to Cudlee Creek
• Stage Two – Cudlee Creek to Burra
• Stage Three – Burra to Melrose
• Stage Four – Melrose to Kanyaka Ruins
• Stage Five – Kanyaka Ruins to Aroona Hut
• Stage Six – Aroona Hut to Sliding Rock Mine
• Stage Seven – Sliding Rock Mine to Arkaroola
• Stage Eight – Arkaroola to Mount Babbage

On Wednesday 22 May 1985 the remaining participants in the Jubilee 150 Heysen Trail Walking project reconvened at the historic Kanyaka Ruins to walk, over the next ten days, to Aroona Hut. Several changes had occurred in the walking group from those that reached the Kanyaka Ruins in September the previous year.

The next morning we woke to a persistent drizzle and low cloud. The plan for the day was to climb Pompey Pillar, the summit of which is just metres lower than the summit of St Mary Peak, the highest point in the Flinders Ranges.

The group comprised Bob Nicolle, Dick Grant, Carlien Melrose, Lynn Steven and an Israeli backpacker, Zig, who had heard of our venture and independently found his way to the Kanyaka Ruins in time to start the walk. Harold Woodward had decided not to continue his participation.

Following the customary group photograph session in front of the ruins, with our now much travelled Jubilee 150 flag, taken by Maureen Nicolle, we set off to the north, immediately crossing the bed of the Kanyaka Creek and passing the small Kanyaka cemetery to our right.

The route for the first two days was along unmade road reserves through open saltbush and blue bush sheep grazing country. Passing Kanyaka Hill on our left we continued to walk north for five kilometres. The road reserve then trended to the west around the base of the range of hills that included Hut Hill.

We left our packs at the base of the range and climbed the 260 metres to the top of Hut Hill (560 metres). A feature as we neared the summit was following a dry stone wall right up to the trig point. Hut Hill provided excellent views to all points of the compass, enabling reminiscence of our adventures to the south, including significant waypoints during our walk from Melrose in Spring the previous year, and to the north providing the opportunity to consider the significant peaks we were to visit in the coming days.

Returning to our packs we walked north-west to a road reserve adjacent to Calabrinda Creek, adjacent to the eastern base of the southern end of the Yappala Range, which we followed to the north-east for several kilometres. The route along the base of the Range, along the western side of the broad Wilson Valley, then took us north for ten kilometres.

In the early afternoon, after passing The Oaks homestead to the east, we reached the point to the south of Mount Elm where a rough bush track passes via a low saddle through the Range. After a quick lunch at the top of the saddle (~ 530 metres) several of my companions and I scrambled one and a half kilometres along the ridge, aptly known as the Razorback, to the top of Mount Elm (686 metres). As our route was now to take us north on the western side of the Range, initially adjacent to the south flowing Bobby Creek and then the north flowing Yappala Creek, the visit to Mount Elm provided the opportunity to gain an impression of the country we were about to visit.

Returning to our packs and companions waiting at the saddle we headed west down the steep track and then north when we reached the base of the range, in the headwaters of Bobby Creek. Following a track north we soon entered the headwaters of Yappala Creek. Five kilometres on, soon after passing Yappala Peak to the east, we rested and replenished water supplies at a windmill and tank, also a favourite watering point for hundreds of finches that we observed sitting on wires of the many fences that congregated at the windmill and associated troughs.

The last walking period for the day brought us to the McDill Graves near the Hawker to Hookina Road. As always the camp on the first night of a new stage of the walk provided the opportunity to catch up on what each of us had been doing since the completion of the previous stage. There was now a number of shared experiences from the previous four stages that prompted much reminiscing on the good and also the challenging events.

Leaving the campsite the next morning at the customary 8.00 am we walked east for several kilometres along the road to Hawker before heading north-east across a flat cleared area for several more kilometres to intersect with the Hawker to Parachilna Road near Robert Bruce’s Grave, which we visited briefly, and the entrance road into the Wonoka homestead. At this point we reached the start of a further section of the built section of the Heysen Trail, which we were to follow for the remainder of the current stage and for the first two days of the next, Stage Six, to Parachilna Gorge.

A kilometre to the north, along the homestead track, with the abandoned and dismantled narrow gauge (Port Augusta to Alice Springs) railway on our left, we again left our packs and proceeded to climb nearby Wonoka Hill. We following a sealed road to the communications tower on the ridge south of the summit (588 metres) and then walked north along a ridge to the summit (630 metres). The weather was overcast and threatening rain, which didn’t in the end eventuate, so after a quick assessment of the country to the north, where The Wide Range dropped steadily to plain level at Mayo Gorge, and the Elder Range rose steeply in the other side of the Gorge, we quickly retraced our steps to our packs for lunch.

We walked briskly north in cool conditions following lunch. Soon after the dismantled railway diverged to the west, and we passed the Wonoka homestead on the bank of Wonoka Creek to the east.

In the mid-afternoon we reached Wonoka Creek which joined with Mernmerna Creek and flowed west out of Mayo Gorge. We walked upstream through the Gorge, to the east, along the bank of Mernmerna Creek. As evening approached we selected a pleasant campsite at the southern end of Red Range, near the junction of Mernmerna Creek and Slaty Creek.

We left camp the following morning in a state of high expectation as our route for the remainder of the walk was to take us through some of the most rugged and picturesque sections of the Flinders Ranges.

Following the marked trail to the north-east along the banks of Slaty Creek we were in a valley with the spectacular eastern face of Elder Range towering over us to the west and the lower but picturesque native pine clad Red Range to our east. And this was our experience for the remainder of the day. Lunch was taken in a wonderful shaded glen – a more ideal spot for a bushwalkers lunch would be hard to imagine.

Mid-afternoon the direction of the trail changed to the north-west and we passed the Umberutna ruins. Having left the headwaters of Slaty Creek we were now following Beatrice Creek downstream. Soon after we rounded the northern end of Red Range and entered a short narrow gorge before emerging onto an attractive flat area at the base of Mount Ide.

After quickly setting up our tents and preparing for tea we climbed the 90 metres to the summit of Mount Ide (~ 410 metres). The views in all directions in the late afternoon sun were magnificent. To the south-west we were able to make out the ‘great stone gully’ on the Elder Range that was to be part of our route to the summit of Mount Aleck the following day. To the north-east we were able to make out our route north through Bunbinyunna Range at Black Gap and onto Bridle Gap in the Wilpena Pound Range.

Next morning, with just our lunch and sufficient water for a strenuous day, we left our campsite at 7.00 am to climb Mount Aleck. It was to be a big day. After following the Heysen Trail markers back to the south for several kilometres and leaving Beatrice Creek we followed a tributary through a low range of hills to the base of the steep and formidable ‘great stone gully’.

After resting we very carefully commenced the 500 metre ascent, with further frequent short rests, whilst taking in the magnificent views to the north and north-east and assessing the best path forward to the next rest spot.

After reaching the top of the Elder Range ridge a kilometre north of Mount Aleck we followed the narrow, rugged and thickly vegetated ridge to Mount Aleck (1,095 metres), arriving in time for an early and leisurely lunch whilst taking in the 360 degree views and reading the notes left by previous climbers in a container found at the base of the summit cairn.

One and a half hours after arriving at the summit we reluctantly commenced retracing our steps along the ridge to the head of the ‘great stone gully’ and began a careful descent. After arriving back at our Mount Ide campsite in the mid-afternoon and a short break we packed up and walked north-east along the Heysen Trail to its junction with the Moralana Scenic Drive, the planned rendezvous point with Maureen Nicolle and her and Bob’s children.

Together we walked upstream along Bunbinyunna Creek and through Black Gap where we selected an attractive campsite just off the Trail. We reflected on our exhausting but thrilling day as we erected our tents and prepared our meals in semi-darkness.

The next morning, well rested, we headed of at 8.00 am, following the Heysen Trail markers to Bridle Gap (690 metres), 250 metres above our campsite, before dropping gradually down just 100 metres onto the floor of Wilpena Pound. Mid-morning, a kilometre or so short of the junction of the Heysen Trail with the inside St Mary Peak walking track, we selected a suitable campsite adjacent to the Trail.

Again with lunch and sufficient water for the remainder of the day we headed north-west across the initially flat Pound floor and after joining the inside St Mary Peak walking track we passed Cooinda Camp on our way to Edeowie Gorge. After lunch on the saddle separating the headwaters of North Wilpena Creek and the west flowing Edeowie Creek (~ 740 metres), and the head of Edeowie Gorge, we headed down the Gorge, reaching the top of Glenora Falls (~500 metres) before retracing our steps to our campsite on the Pound floor.

The next morning we woke to a persistent drizzle and low cloud. The plan for the day was to climb Pompey Pillar, the summit of which is just metres lower than the summit of St Mary Peak, the highest point in the Flinders Ranges.

Unless the clouds lifted during the morning as we proceeded towards Pompey Pillar finding the summit would require some particularly skilful map reading and dead reckoning. Carlien, Lynn and Dick decided to walk onto the Wilpena Pound campsite which was to be our campsite that evening whist Bob, Zig and I headed to Pompey Pillar.

Leaving our saturated tents up, in the hope that the weather would improve during the time we were away, we left at 7.30 am. Our initial route was north-west along the Pound floor staying clear of the inside St Marys Peak walking track. The strategy was to select the spur that lead to Pompey Pillar whilst at a low attitude and visibility, albeit, gave the best guide to the summit.

After an hour of walking as the drizzle become rain, believing that, despite limited visual references, we were at the base of the right spur we headed south-west along the steadily rising spur. The increase of height from the point of leaving the Pound floor to the summit of Pompey Pillar was 470 metres, over a distance of just one and a half kilometres. Soon the journey up the spur became quite steep.

As we ascended the visibility reduced even further as the clouds become thicker. At 11.00 am we reached the summit of Pompey Pillar (1,168 metres), marked by a small cairn. Thick clouds swirled around and visibility was less than 50 metres. Finding a somewhat sheltered area amongst rocks just below the summit we ate a quick lunch, reconciled that we were not going to see what we knew would be a stunning view in clear weather, and then headed back to our campsite. Working on the principle that as long as in descending we maintained a generally north-easterly direction, thereby avoiding entering Edeowie Gorge, we would eventually reach the Pound floor made for less stressful navigation. We did however need to stay on spurs and avoid entering creek beds which were heavily vegetated and rugged.

It was still drizzling, although the clouds were higher giving greater visibility, when we reached our campsite in the mid-afternoon. Unfortunately our tents were still very damp so we had no alternative to pack them wet before following the Heysen Trail markers across the Pound floor, to the intersection with the inside St Mary Peak walking trail near the abandoned homestead, and then past Sliding Rock and through the Pound entrance to the picturesque Wilpena Pound camping ground beyond.

Arriving in the late afternoon we sought out Maureen Nicolle’s campsite and were soon, with light drizzle still falling, attempting to dry our wet clothes before a largish fire. Fortunately we were able to sleep overnight in the Nicolle’s large annexe tent, thereby avoiding the need to erect and sleep in wet tents.

The weather was still overcast but fortunately dry as we headed out from the camping ground the next morning, following the Heysen Trail markers to the north-west, also the route for the outside St Mary Peak walking trail. After an hour we reached the point where the Heysen Trail continued on along an old fence line and the St Mary Peak walking trail commenced a steady 530 metre climb up the outside of the Pound wall to the summit of St Mary Peak.

Leaving our packs a short distance off the Trail, after spreading our still wet tents and other wet equipment out on nearby bushes to dry, we headed up the walking trail, in an hour reaching Tanderra Saddle (910 metres) and then 45 minutes later the summit of St Mary Peak (1,170 metres).

After half an hour on the summit, spent looking as some of the features we would be visiting in the few days remaining of this stage and the first four days of the next stage, including the just visible Patawarta Hill, beyond the built section of the Heysen Trail, more than 60 kilometres to the north, we headed back down. The return to our packs took an hour and half and after a quick lunch we packed our now dry tents and equipment and followed the Heysen Trail markers to the north-west and then to the north-east through a range of low hills to Wilcolo Creek at the base of the southern end of the ABC Range. After following the Creek downstream for several hours we selected an attractive campsite on the banks of the Creek with Mount Abrupt prominent to the west.

Our route the next morning took us north for three and a half kilometres before heading east, upstream along a creek that passed through two of the ABC Range peaks. The route gradually ascended to and then followed a north leading fire access track on a ridge overlooking Bunyeroo Valley further to the east.

Leaving the fire access track we then followed a tributary of Bunyeroo Creek north and then north-east, arriving at its headwaters adjacent to Yanyanna Hut and Yard, where we stopped for lunch. After lunch we followed the Heysen Trail markers along the undulating Yanyanna Walking and Fire Access Track north, passing Old Etatina and another old hut and yards near Etina Creek. Crossing over the Brachina Gorge road and Brachina Creek we selected a campsite adjacent to the Creek.

The next morning we continued north along the gently undulating Trezona Walking and Fire Access Track and then after a short break we commenced walking west along the Bulls Gap Walking Track, passing over Red Hill Lookout (537 metres), before descending to, crossing and briefly following Yuluna Creek. Our route continued west across a low saddle through the ABC Range before emerging in the early afternoon in the Aroona Valley near Aroona Ruins, the end of the Stage Five.

The walk had been a great success. Our journey over three and a half years to Mount Babbage was now well over the half-way point. The next stage however, in the spring of 1985, would take us beyond Parachilna Gorge, the end point of the built section of the Heysen Trail. That had a particular interest for me as it was being argued by some that the Trail, originally conceived as a walking trail to the northern tip of the Flinders Ranges should, on safety grounds, finish at Parachilna Gorge. I was, unsuccessfully, a vocal advocate for retaining the original concept.

A further 30 days of walking would bring us to Mount Babbage. After the first three days of the next stage we would be walking a section of the Heysen Trail which should, and might still one day be?

Jump to content:

• Introduction – The First End-to-End walk of the Heysen Trail
• Stage One – Cape Jervis to Cudlee Creek
• Stage Two – Cudlee Creek to Burra
• Stage Three – Burra to Melrose
• Stage Four – Melrose to Kanyaka Ruins
• Stage Five – Kanyaka Ruins to Aroona Hut
• Stage Six – Aroona Hut to Sliding Rock Mine
• Stage Seven – Sliding Rock Mine to Arkaroola
• Stage Eight – Arkaroola to Mount Babbage

On Monday 13 August 1984 the members of the Jubilee 150 Heysen Trail Walking Project re-convened at Melrose to commence the fourth stage over the next ten days. Reaching the historic Kanyaka Ruins was our objective for the stage, a significant point also be because it was the half-way point of our walk from Cape Jervis on Fleurieu Peninsula and Mount Babbage at the northern tip of the Flinders Ranges.

It was impossible to avoid periods of inclement weather from time to time during the walk. The greatest frustration when inclement weather did occur was passing through an area of great beauty or interest and missing the experience. But then there is the experience and satisfaction of copping with the inclement weather.

After staying overnight in onsite vans at the picturesque Melrose Caravan Park, an almost full complement of walkers from the Burra to Melrose stage gathered on Tuesday 14 August in the cool early morning outside the Melrose Post Office. Unfortunately Lyn Steven had fallen victim to flu only days before the walk was to commence and had to withdraw.

Our initial course lay alongside the bitumen road leading north out of the town towards Wilmington. After two kilometres we entered the red gum studded Melrose Showgrounds and then walked along a narrow bush track to the base of Mount Remarkable. We had now entered the eastern section of the Mount Remarkable National Park.

Setting out to climb Mount Remarkable just an hour after starting the stage, with fully laden packs, had caused a great deal of discussion as we had driven to Melrose the previous day. Slow and steady was the approach as we commenced the 600 metre ascent. The thick vegetation blocked some of the views to the east over the southern Willochra Plains, with only occasional openings providing the inspirational views which are so helpful when experiencing the considerable effort of steep ascents.

Well before lunch, with relief, we reached the summit (960 metres) and although vegetation continued to restrict the view we were well satisfied with our morning’s effort under heavy packs.

A rough track along the slowly descending top of the Mount Remarkable Range lead us north. Two kilometres on we diverted west towards the steep drop from the ridge into Spring Creek. Lunch was taken on broad saddle overlooking the deep chasm which led down to the creek. We successfully negotiated the steep and rocky scree slopes down to Spring Creek, detouring around a snake found sunning itself amongst the rocks.

Following the creek downstream to the north we stopped to admire the strongly flowing Goat Rock waterfall. We continued to follow Spring Creek downstream, passing Cannon Swamp, and in the mid-afternoon we selected our campsite a short distance from an unfenced road reserve we would use the next morning to pass from the eastern section of Mount Remarkable National Park to the much larger western section.

Leaving our packs we walked a further two kilometres downstream along Spring Creek to the site of the historic Spring Creek Mine. This copper mine was one of the earliest in the area. As a result of flooding of the shafts as they were driven deeper, which caused the mine to be abandoned not that long after it was established, the mine is utilised as the source of nearby Wilmington’s water supply. We returned to our campsite in the late afternoon.

Following an extremely cold night, evidenced by the frosty white blanket adorning the scene the next morning and the solid blocks of ice in our various water containers, we soon warmed up as we slowly climbed out of the Spring Creek valley, walking west along a rough bush track.

The eastern and western sections of Mount Remarkable National Park are separated by a two kilometre wide section of private grazing land. The only means for walkers to cross directly between the two sections is by way of this one chain (22 yard) wide road reserve. I had heard of attempts to bluff walkers from using this corridor and so to ensure we stayed on the road reserve I took particular care to follow our progress on the topographical-cadastral map I was carrying. I wanted to be certain of being able to justify our position on the road reserve if challenged during the forty minutes or so it took to walk from the eastern section to the western section.

The western section was reached without incident. We followed various fire trails south and then west before diverting south again to follow a narrow ridge – the watershed between the Willochra drainage system to the east, eventually flowing into Lake Torrens, and the Alligator and Mambray Creek systems to the west that flowed into Spencer Gulf. Excellent views of the vast Alligator Creek pound-like basin were a constant feature for much of the remainder to the day as we walked south to Black Range. From several points the summit of Mount Brown could be seen well off to the north. Progress was slow due to the combined effects of the warm weather, the thick vegetation and the rugged ridge top.

In the late afternoon we reached Mount Cavern (770 metres), on the Black Range. When I was first introduced to the area by the Duke of Edinburgh Award Scheme in the late 1960s, Mount Cavern was known as Black Hill. We still needed to descent 570 metres to our planned campsite on the banks of Mambray Creek. Several of the group, including myself, were quite exhausted by the day’s effort and suffered from ‘rubbery legs’ as we descended the established walking track in a race to reach the bottom before dark. At one stage I needed to sit by the side of the trail for many minutes before my legs regained the strength to continue.

An attractive campsite in an idyllic grassy native pine and red gum studded setting was established within metres of the base of the descent from Mount Cavern. Given the exhausted condition of my companions I didn’t have the heart to mention the effort of the previous two days had advanced our northwards progress from the latitude of Melrose by just 500 metres.

The extent of the recovery of even the most exhausted of our group from their condition the previous evening was miraculous when we set out the next morning. Only a short walk brought us to the junction of Mambray and Alligator Creeks. After a delightful walk upstream along Alligator Creek past Pine Flat we reached the entrance to Hidden Gorge. Despite walking in the Mambray and Alligator Creek on a number of occasions this was the first time I was to visit Hidden Gorge. I had been particularly looking forward to this section of the walk.

We all enjoyed one of the best sections of walking trail in the Flinders Ranges and were well satisfied with the morning as we emerged from the gorge at the top of The Battery range. We turned north following the fire trail along the ridge top, pausing for lunch near The Battery (~ 610 metres) at noon. As we ate we became aware of a strong weather front approaching steadily from the west, reminiscence of our experience near Pewsey Vale Peak on the second stage of our walk. It was inevitable that we were going to get quite wet before long.

It was impossible to avoid periods of inclement weather from time to time during the walk. The greatest frustration when inclement weather did occur was passing through an area of great beauty or interest and missing the experience. But then there is the experience and satisfaction of copping with the inclement weather. In several days we would be ascending Mount Brown. The two previous times I had been to the top of Mount Brown low clouds and rain had completely blocked out the view. Surely that couldn’t happen again.

Within an hour of finishing our lunch break the storm front arrived. All of a sudden, high up on The Battery range, we were enveloped in cloud and being drenched by steady rain. Navigation was to be critical as we reached the northern end of The Battery range. Originally it was intended to leave our packs on top of the range and walk down The Terraces to Alligator Gorge. The continuing steady rain and poor visibility coupled with the navigational challenges we faced combined to convince us to press on to get to our planned campsite and to shelter in our tents as quickly as possible.

By noting the few distinctive various reference points at the northern end of The Battery range, estimating our walking speed and the time we had been walking we successfully selected the correct point to divert north-west through a narrow gorge to Hancocks Lookout Road. We emerged from the clouds at the base of the gorge and the rain was just beginning to ease as a campsite was selected in a grove of mallee trees adjacent to the road, one and a half kilometres south of the intersection of Hancocks Lookout Road and the Horrocks Pass Road.

Our camp fire that night served many purposes as in turn it was used for warmth, drying clothes and cooking tea. A minor crisis occurred when a drying pair of socks suspended above the fire fell into a simmering billy of soup.

The weather had almost cleared as we set out the next morning, soon reaching the bitumen Horrocks Pass Road. This was followed to the top of the Pass. After pausing briefly to inspect the Horrock Memorial in cool blustery conditions we walked north up a steep rough track. A wide road reserve, following the top of the ridge north for fifteen kilometres, would now lead us to the base of Mount Brown. This was our route for the remainder of the day. As we followed the ridge higher the cool south-westerly wind became progressively stronger.

The hills were quite bare, offering little protection and lunch was taken in a barely sheltered area on the eastern side of the ridge. A minor problem occurred when I was the last to pack up and leave the lunch spot and my companions took a wrong turn and started to follow a ridge heading in the direction of Port Augusta.

We continued to follow the ridge north throughout the afternoon, passing the headwaters of Yapoona Creek and then Minbadoggie Creek to the east and Deep Creek and then Spear Creek to the west, only dropping down off of the ridge to the west into the headwaters of Mount Brown Creek in the late afternoon to find a suitable campsite. As we established our campsite the clouds descended and light rain began to fall. Fortunately it soon stopped. At 600 metres above sea level this was our highest campsite since reaching the Flinders Ranges. At this altitude and time of the year the likelihood of being clouded in was relatively high. In the morning we would climb Mount Brown, the highest point of the walk so far. As we prepared tea discussion centred on the conditions likely to be encountered the next day.

Showers fell during the night and a thick mist shrouded the area as we prepared to set out. Mount Brown Creek was followed upstream for a kilometre before we commenced contouring around the hills in a steady climb to the north. The wind grew stronger as we got higher and by the time we reached the saddle east of the summit of Mount Brown the wind was blowing a gale and mist was swirling around. Carlien volunteered to stay with our packs at the saddle and we quickly ascended the further 180 metres of height to the summit (~ 970 metres) – in thick cloud. Third time to the top and Mount Brown without the opportunity to enjoy the view. I was tempted to wait for some time in the hope that the weather would clear but the very cold windy conditions and knowledge of our demanding schedule later in the day and in the days ahead convinced me to press on. Perhaps I will be luckier the fourth time I reach the top of Mount Brown. (I was, but that wasn’t until 2004.)

Returning to Carlien we retrieved our packs and walked east contouring around the northern side of Mount Brown East before following a long descending ridge that would take us to Waukarie Creek. As we commenced our descent the weather began to clear and before long the summit of Mount Brown temporarily emerged from the clouds. We reached the base of the ridge near Waukarie Waterfall at noon.

Our lunch site was in an attractive setting on a grassy slope only a few metres from the waterfall, with a small stream of water cascading over the ten metre drop.

A delightful walk down Waukarie Creek compensated for some of the disappointment of the morning. As we emerged from the steep sided valley in the mid-afternoon the spectacular Devils Peak dominated the view to the north. Continuing to walk along Waukarie Creek we reached Woolshed Flat, a former siding fettlers camp in Pichi Richi Pass. As we approached Woolshed Flat the summit of Mount Brown was again shrouded in clouds. In addition to camping at Woolshed Flat this was our half-way supply point for the stage. Woody’s sons had kindly offered to bring up our supplies from Adelaide and they arrived in the late afternoon. It had been suggested to Lyn that she should join us for the second half of the stage if her flu had abated but this had not occurred.

We left at 7.30 am the following morning, without packs, to climb Devils Peak. After walking across the historic railway bridge over Waukarie Creek we walked along the narrow gauge Pichi Richi railway line north, reaching the site of the old Pichi Richi township after an hour and a half. Now just north of Devils Peak we crossed over the Port Augusta to Quorn road, and commenced a steep climb to the summit. In an hour we reached the northern and highest point of the summit (~ 700 metres). We stayed on the summit for some time, admiring the magnificent view over to, now cloud-free, Mount Brown.

It took some effort to work our way along the top of the ridge to its southern end before following a suitable spur down to the railway line. Retracing our steps we reached Woolshed Flat in time for a late lunch. By the time we had finished lunch and loaded up our food for the remainder of the stage it was mid-afternoon when we commenced following the railway line south, a kilometre on crossing another impressive railway bridge, similar to the well-known bridge over Waukarie Creek, but relatively unknown because it is not easily seen from the Port Augusta to Quorn road.

Continuing to follow the railway line as it swung to the west and soon reached the former settlement of Saltia near the entrance to Pichi Richi Pass. Nothing of Saltia remains. At Saltia we recommenced our northerly progress, ascending the end of a high ridge we were to follow for nineteen kilometres to the Dutchmans Stern. Soon after crossing over Saltia Hill (~ 470 metres) the unmistakable sign of feral goats was a disturbing feature. It was soon clear our progress along the top of the ridge was not going to be as rapid as I had anticipated. The ridge was reasonably flat but thick vegetation slowed progress. Late in the afternoon a campsite was established in a small valley just off to the eastern side of the ridge and only a small distance north of the latitude of Woolshed Flat.

Next morning we returned to the ridge top and continued north. Progress slowed further as the vegetation became progressively thicker. Late in the morning we reached the point where the Albury Vale track crossed the ridge. I was concerned we were now several hours behind schedule and I decided to vary from the planned route. The planned route was to follow the ridge north all the way to the Dutchmans Stern, still ten kilometres away. I decided to skirt around to the western side of the ridge and utilise a series of station tracks indicated on the map in an effort to get back on schedule.

Lunch time was approaching when we reached the starting point of our western traverse, above the headwaters of (another) Deep Creek. A cold wind was blowing strongly from the south-west as we lunched, huddled for protection in low bushes, with magnificent views to the west to the plain 500 metres below. The area between the Dutchmans Stern Range and the western plain is some of the most rugged in the Southern Flinders Ranges and we were treated to great views down steep valleys and gorges as we proceeded north after lunch. To add to the spectacle the top of the Dutchmans Stern Range to the east towered a further 200 metres above us.

Soon after lunch, above the headwaters of South Creek, we reached a rough station track leading north, enabling us to make up the time lost the previous afternoon and during the morning. About two kilometres from ‘The Dutchman’ homestead we left the track and continued north along the watershed between the Willochra Creek drainage system on the east and the west flowing streams. Late in the afternoon we were approaching ‘Depot Flat’ station and with rain threatening we decided to camp near a windmill and tank on Nathaltee Creek. A brief shower fell as we erected our tents adding a sense of urgency to our efforts. The weather cleared soon after but remained cool and blustery. The persistent cool windy conditions of the previous four and five days had become tiresome. We had made excellent northwards progress during the day but I was disappointed the original plan of walking along the top of the Dutchmans Stern Range from Saltia to the Dutchmans Stern had not been achieved. This disappointment was balanced however by the anticipation of visiting Eyre’s Depot Creek in the foothills to the north-west the following day.

We found ourselves enveloped in thick clouds when we woke the following morning. This was going to provide a further challenging navigational exercise. Our route was to continue to follow a watershed for several kilometres to the west and then north, and then follow a specific ridge to the north-west to the base of the range at Eyre’s Depot Creek. But with visibility less than 50 metres would my map reading and ground interpretation skills enable us to continue along the watershed and then pick the right ridge?

Carefully we walked over Depot Creek Hill (~ 570 metres) and along the bare featureless ridge before selecting the ridge that was to take up down to Depot Creek. Fortunately the navigation was successful, but only confirmed as we emerged from the clouds at about 450 metres above sea level. By mid-morning we neared the base of the range at the point Depot Creek flows out of the range and out onto the western plain. At less than 200 metres above sea level we were at the lowest altitude since walking up Sugarloaf Hill overlooking Inman Valley nearly thirty walking days earlier.

Bob had visited Depot Creek several months prior to our arrival. We left our packs at a spot to which we would return for lunch and he led our exploration of the area. Of interest was a substantial historic concrete weir, now completely choked with silt and rocks brought down from upstream during floods, and an abandoned mine just upstream from the weir. Apparently the weir was constructed to collect water for the Port Augusta’s early, steam-age, railway activities.

We returned to our packs and after lunch followed a substantial tributary of Depot Creek upstream to the north. The afternoon provided one of the most enjoyable walks of the stage, rivalling Hidden Gorge. This beautiful meandering creek, bounded by steep rugged cliffs, led us eight kilometres as the crow flies, but nearly double that distance with the constant meandering of the creek east and west, as we journey to the north, almost to the summit of Mount Arden. I had planned to camp in the upper reaches of the creek depending on the availability of water. Whilst water had been plentiful for the first several kilometres after leaving Depot Creek I misjudged when to secure water for our campsite that night and before I realised the creek had become waterless. Earlier in the day I had indicated to my companions that we would be camping on water so all of our supplies were low. When it became clear there was little likelihood of water in the remainder of the creek I had to decide whether to turn back to where water could be obtained or press ahead to the next expected water source at Hannimans Gorge, still more than six kilometres ahead. We decided to push on. Late in the afternoon we emerged from the headwaters of the creek, 740 metres above sea level, and only 100 metres less than the height of Mount Arden, the summit of which stood out plainly just a half a kilometre away to the north-west.

In circumstances similar to those at Mount Cavern a week earlier it would be a race against the approaching darkness to reach our campsite and water. Did we have time to reach the summit of Mount Arden and then dash to Hannimans Gorge in time to secure a water supply and a suitable campsite before dark? Woody and I decided to strike for Mount Arden whilst the others headed directly to Hannimans Gorge to secure the water supply and a suitable campsite whilst it was still light.

Woody and I virtually jogged to the summit of Mount Arden (844 metres). In one respect we were fortunate events had transpired the way they had that day – in the evening light the various shadows and shades contributed to stunning views all around but particularly of the Dutchmans Stern Range, eighteen kilometres to the south. Now, without a minute to spare, we sped east as quickly as we could with safety, given the failing light. In the half-light we could just see our companions 500 metres in front.

We were fortunate to pass through the steeper rocky areas whilst there was sufficient light. As we got to the softer and flatter country to the east we paused briefly to take our torches out of our packs and hurried on. It was dark when Woody and I caught up with our companions just as they selected a campsite. The sound of water trickling in the adjacent creek at the head of Hannimans Gorge was a welcome sound. We had made it – but only just!

Compared with the drama of the previous day the route and events of the following day were very much an anti-climax. Leaving our campsite at the customary 8.00 am we walked north along the western flank of the distinctive narrow range which is dissected by the well-known Warren and Buckaringa Gorges, as well as Hannimans Gorge. After three kilometres we reached Buckaringa Gorge which we walked through along a well-known gravel road. Passing the ‘Willow Glen’ property and crossing the broad Mount Arden Creek we followed a substantial gravel road north-east. Shortly before lunch we paused at the historic grave of Hugh Proby. Lunch was taken under shady trees on the southern bank of Mount Arden Creek. Soon after lunch we crossed the very saline Willochra Creek and then after passing through the phantom township of Simmonston, Kanyaka Creek was also crossed as we passed through to the eastern side of the curious Dyke ridge.

Simmonston is at the northern end of the Willochra Plain. The topographical-cadastral map we were using clearly indicated the many small sections into which the Plain had been surveyed during the foolishly optimistic wheat growing expansion of the 1880s and 1890s. The map indicated that there were ruins on many of these allotments, testimony to the folly of those times. Our goal for the day was one of the ruins at the base of Hut Hill. As if to compensate for the previous day we reached our campsite by mid-afternoon.

We debated whether to climb Hut Hill, 280 metres above our campsite and just a kilometre away to the north, but I indicated the plan was to climb it from the north on the first day of the next stage and enthusiasm, given the exertion of the previous day, quickly waned. As this was the final night of the current stage of the walk our evening meals tended to be mixtures of leftovers and the extra supplies we all carried in the event of unforseen delays, that is, a feast of sorts.

Our destination the next morning was the ruins of the former Kanyaka head station. We walked east along an unfenced road reserve before commencing a steady 200 metre climb to the rocky top of a small range of hills. We reached the top about 500 metres south of Kanyaka Hill. Woody, Bob and I left our packs and walked to the summit (~ 580 metres) whilst the others continued south-east to the Kanyaka ruins, now visible on the east bank of Kanyaka Creek.

The diversion was well worthwhile, particularly to experience the magnificent views to the south and west. The distinctive Wyacca Bluff and recently visited Mount Arden caught our eye to the west and south-west whilst in the south the Dutchmans Stern, Devils Peak, Mount Brown, and Mount Remarkable, our starting point for the stage, were prominent. The vast flat bare Willochra Plain in the foreground added to the spectacle.

Returning to our packs the summit group hurried east, although a little more to the south than our companions in order to inspect the shallow Kanyaka mine diggings. By 10.45 am we had all reached the ruins. We were surprised and pleased to find several workmen at work at the site stabilising the walls of the ruins for the State Heritage Branch.

Congratulations were extended all-round. In terms of physical effort this stage had been the most difficult we had experienced thus far. We had ascended and then descended from major peaks and ridges on six occasions over ten days, each time with laden packs. The number of late finishes during the stage was an indication that I need to be more conservative in planning our route for the four remaining stages to Mount Babbage.

We had reached the halfway point. Whilst the number of walkers had dropped to nearly half of the number that started at Cape Jervis, a strong group remained. I hoped we would all share the satisfaction of reaching Mount Babbage two years hence.

Jump to content:

• Introduction – The First End-to-End walk of the Heysen Trail
• Stage One – Cape Jervis to Cudlee Creek
• Stage Two – Cudlee Creek to Burra
• Stage Three – Burra to Melrose
• Stage Four – Melrose to Kanyaka Ruins
• Stage Five – Kanyaka Ruins to Aroona Hut
• Stage Six – Aroona Hut to Sliding Rock Mine
• Stage Seven – Sliding Rock Mine to Arkaroola
• Stage Eight – Arkaroola to Mount Babbage

A year had now passed since the Jubilee 150 Heysen Trail Walking Project had commenced at Cape Jervis. On Monday 30 April 1984 the remaining six of the original eleven walkers – Lyn Steven, Carlien Melrose, Dick Grant, Bob Nicolle, Harold (Woody) Woodward and I gathered at Burra to commence our third ten day walk with Melrose the destination. Much of the excitement and anticipation evident from the commencement of this stage was the knowledge that we would reach the Flinders Ranges during the latter days of the walk.

I was reluctant to reveal to my companions that despite two days of walking we were still only a few kilometres north of the latitude of Burra. Continuing west we were surprised to be joined by a car occupied by our hosts from the previous evening, bringing with them an elaborate morning tea.

We elected to stay overnight in Burra’s historic Paxton Square Cottages to enable an early start on the first day of the walk. A celebratory tea at a nearby hotel ensured the walk was getting off on the right foot.

Soon after 8.00 am on Tuesday 1 May we walked the short distance from the Cottages, across the Burra Creek, to the Market Square. After the customary start of the stage photograph we commenced walking to the north through the town’s streets.

I took only a short time to walk to and through Burra North and reach Redruth Goal on the outskirts of the town. Our route that morning was following a series of road reserves north over bare hills. Several kilometres on we crossed the Burra Creek and then gradually gained height with excellent views opening up to the south and the west. Later in the morning we passed a group of farm hands busily marking lambs in a set of portable sheep yards, erected adjacent to the road reserve we were following.

After reaching the top of a high north-south ridge, leaving the headwaters of the Burra Creek in the process, we continued to walk north to our lunch spot at Mount Cone (789 metres).

The weather was excellent for walking, clear and sunny but not to warm, and we enjoyed the lunch with magnificent views to the north-east to Mount Bryan and to the north-west across a broad plain to Hallett Hill. Although there had been little contact between the members of the group since the completion of the second stage in early September 1983 it was like old times as we swapped stories and remembered the humorous and challenging events of the previous two stages.

After lunch we left the ridge, following a track north, then west, down onto the plain to the small township of Mount Bryan. We had reached the end of our first day as I had made arrangements to camp in the grounds of the small Mount Bryan School, quite a modern school with shower facilities and a cooking area. After erecting our tents on the school oval we took turns in using the shower. The kitchen facilities added to the luxury of the occasion, enabling tea to be cooked with a greater degree of precision that usual. By coincidence the school had a parent night on the night of our residency. We appreciated the opportunity to meet some of the locals although we wondered at their reaction to us.

We walked west after leaving the school in the morning. This was to be our general direction for the next day and a half. Following a minor dirt road we climbed over the Bald Hill Range. Several kilometres on from the top of the range we left our packs on the side of the road and followed a road reserve to the summit of Hallett Hill (760 metres). Equally impressive views as those experienced the day before from Mount Cone made the diversion worthwhile, particularly in the clear sunny conditions. After returning to our packs an hour later we continued to the west, and paused for lunch on the banks of the dry Walton’s Palace Creek. Soon after lunch, to the consternation of my companions we diverted south, and followed minor roads for the remainder of the afternoon, passing at one stage a few kilometres to the east of Booborowie. During the afternoon we were startled at one point by two jet fighter aircraft screaming low over the Booborowie plains. The noise was enormous, and more spectacular because it was so unexpected. The incident became even more significant to us when we learnt the following morning from the news broadcast on the small pocket radio I carried that one of the jets had ditched in Gulf Saint Vincent later that afternoon.

Late in the afternoon, soon after our route changed to the west, we reached the first of the two Leighton Forest Reserves, substantial areas of mature eucalypt plantings, established many decades before for the purpose of forestry research. Walking further south we reached the second experimental forest area where we established our campsite. My map indicated the Moomba to Adelaide natural gas pipeline passed through the middle of this area of forest, confirmed when to our surprise we found a substantial gas compression plant in the middle of the forest.

During our arrival in Burra the previous year the Chairman of the District Council of Burra Burra who lived near the Leighton forests had offered to host us for dinner at his home when we passed through the area. Prior to commencing this stage of the walk I had arranged for him to pick us up from our campsite and drive us to his home for tea and return us our campsite later that evening. The agreed time for the pick-up came and went without any sign of the Chairman. After some time we phoned from a nearby farmhouse – finding the recently confirmed arrangement had been forgotten. New arrangements we rapidly made and within thirty minutes we had been picked up and transported to the Chairman’s home for tea. For the second consecutive night we had the opportunity to shower – with an excellent tea provided as well. Following such hospitality if felt strange indeed to be returned to our forest campsite later that night.

The next morning we walked west along Camels Hump Road. I was reluctant to reveal to my companions that despite two days of walking we were still only a few kilometres north of the latitude of Burra. Continuing west we were surprised to be joined by a car occupied by our hosts from the previous evening, bringing with them an elaborate morning tea. These walks were to be an important contributor to my annual battle of the bulge and this was not helping!

After a pleasant interlude we resumed our walk to the west along the well-made gravel road. Crossing over Camels Hump Range we proceeded down into a wide valley, crossing Hill River just north of the small settlement of Hilltown.

Soon after crossing Hutt River lunch was taken in pleasant sunny weather adjacent to The Bluff shearing shed. Continuing further west after lunch we crossed the Clare to Spalding Road and following an increasingly rough dirt track we entered the foothills of the Yackamoorundie Range. As we contoured around the foothills and encountered a friendly (over friendly) horse we finally re-commenced our journey to the north, much to the delight and relief of my companions. We gradually ascended to the top of the range and as evening approached we diverted to the east, down to the site of our planned campsite at the Geralka property. This interesting property was one of the pioneers in farm tourism in South Australia, providing displays of farm equipment through the ages, farm tours and overnight accommodation. The property also had a replica underground copper mine. We soon erected our tents on an attractive lawn area adjacent to the homestead and an adjacent small caravan park. The opportunity to shower was again available – and taken up.

We commenced walking the next morning at our customary 8.00 am, walking north-west across paddocks to a gravel road that lead past the historic North Bungaree stud Merino property and back to the top of the Yackamoorundie Range.

Soon after reaching the top of the Range we reached Mount Gregory (492 metres), the highest point on the Range. Walking along the top of the Range was a pleasure. The gradient along a fire access track was gently undulating, the weather was fine and sunny without being too warm, the views were wonderful, and our direction was north! Seven kilometres north of Mount Gregory the fire access track petered out and we commenced a slow descent along a narrow ridge down to the River Broughton. Lunch was taken adjacent to a bridge carrying a pipeline from the nearby Bundaleer Reservoir across the river. This pipeline takes water from the reservoir to many areas of the Mid North and Yorke Peninsula. Our first glimpse of the Southern Flinders Ranges from the top of the Yackamoorundie Range earlier in the day had evoked great excitement and with the anticipation of being in the Flinders within a few days, the mood during lunch reflected that.

Following lunch we followed the pipeline north as it across grazing land adjacent to Bundaleer Creek. After crossing the Spalding to Gulnare Road and the Morgan to Whyalla Pipeline we stopped to inspect the earthen wall forming the Bundaleer Reservoir before continuing north along a minor road adjacent to the Bundaleer Creek and the Bundaleer Intake Channel. The Bundaleer Reservoir is fed by a series of weirs and channels emanating from the Bundaleer and Freshwater Creeks and the River Broughton, although the River Broughton is no longer utilised for this purpose due to its increasing salinity.

Four kilometres north of the reservoir we reached the Bundaleer Creek weir. We crossed to the western bank of the creek via the substantial concrete weir structure and quickly established our campsite in the fading light. Twenty two kilometres of northward progress during the day had ensured my companions maintained their positive mood.

Next morning we followed the Bundaleer Creek upstream to its junction with Never Never Creek. At this point the Bundaleer Creek diverts to the west to its headwaters. We followed the Never Never Creek upstream. The weather was again excellent for walking as we walked along the banks of the creek in a deep valley. After passing through the ‘Yandowie’ property in the mid-morning we commenced following a minor gravel road in lightly wooded country to Bundaleer Gardens, a fascinating little oasis of commercial fruit trees and vegetable gardens.

Soon after passing Bundaleer Gardens we entered the Pinus radiata and eucalyptus plantations of the Bundaleer Forest Reserve. On a shaded rise just inside the Reserve we enjoyed lunch whilst watching a small aeroplane busily top-dressing the bare hills of the nearby Campbell Range.

After lunch we followed steep logging tracks and fire breaks to the top of the Campbell Range, and soon reached the summit of New Campbell Hill (~ 720 metres). Excellent views of the Southern Flinders Ranges revived and excited us after the steep climb we had experienced to soon after lunch. The crest of the Campbell Range forms the western boundary of the Forest Reserve. Small isolated blocks of Pinus radiata have been established in the high valleys on the eastern side of the main ridge and we walked through several as we walked in a north-westerly direction to the historic Bundaleer Arboretum, our campsite for that night. In addition to being our campsite the Arboretum was our half-way food re-supply point.

Arriving at the Arboretum in the late afternoon a quick and increasingly desperate search of the area failed to reveal the food and water that I had arranged to be left for us. The arrangement was for the food to be left at the nearby Forest headquarters, two and a half kilometres to the east, and for the food to be brought up to the Arboretum earlier that day. Leaving the others to establish the camp Woody and I quickly walked down a gravel road and then through a Eucalyptus plantation to the headquarters, fervently hoping that our food had at least reached that point. To our relief we found our food at the home of the Officer in Charge. With the replenishments we were driven back to our anxious companions at the Arboretum.

Our overnight stay in the Arboretum, with its many various exotic tall trees was memorable and a feature of the stage. The next morning we walked west across Campbell Range and along well-made gravel roads adjacent to Teetuppennie Creek and then the Yackamoorundie Creek into which it flows, whilst crossing the broad, flat and virtually featureless Georgetown Plain. The 22 kilometre walk to Georgetown proved to be, as I had anticipated, the most testing sections of the walk since we commenced at Cape Jervis the previous year. We were determined to reach Georgetown before stopping for lunch. At 1.00 pm we stumbled into Georgetown. Adding to the frustration was the warm sunny weather without the benefit of any shade for the whole of the morning. I had spent a considerable time in the lead up to the stage, without success, trying to find a more interesting route from the top of the Mount Lofty ranges to the Southern Flinders Ranges and knew that our trek across the Georgetown Plan would be memorable to my companions, but for the wrong reason.

Following our late lunch on the lawns outside the Georgetown Public Hall we again walked west out of the town along an increasingly narrow track. We then entered an undulating area called Sams Hills, intersected by Rocky River which presented some difficulty in crossing. Some of my companions proposed to collect water from the river for our campsite later that afternoon but found it brackish. Our campsite several kilometres from Rocky River was probably the most significant our walk to date. Due to its exposure on a road reserve devoid of vegetation and the resultant lack of firewood it was the coldest we had experienced. But we were right on the boundary of the Northern Mount Lofty Ranges and the Southern Flinders Ranges. Although of the same origin (the Adelaide Geosyncline) there was a substantial difference in the nature and character of each range. We had experienced the generally soft and gentle hills and valleys of the Mount Lofty Ranges and were about to experience the steeper and more rugged Flinders Ranges. We were also passing progressively into more isolated and sparsely populated areas were the ability of our group to remain self-reliant was of greater importance.

Soon joining a minor road we continued walking west the following morning, crossing the standard gauge Port Pirie to Broken Hill railway line, and adjacent abandoned narrow gauge line, and passing the huge 5PI and 5CK radio masts before diverting north to our planned lunch spot at Bowman Park near the town of Crystal Brook. The historic Bowman Park property, located on the banks of Crystal Brook (the creek), provided yet another opportunity to shower. Originally the homestead of an early pastoral property the extensive buildings had been adapted for use as a school campsite and as a group of school children were taking up residency later that day the showers were already hot.

Following a leisurely lunch we continued walking northwards upstream on the banks of Crystal Brook, all feeling the pleasure of having reached the Southern Flinders Ranges, 27 walking days after leaving Cape Jervis the previous year. Nearly five kilometres on we crossed the Morgan to Whyalla pipeline for the fifth and final time. After crossing the Gladstone to Port Pirie Road at Hughes Gap we followed a minor road north along a ridge that steadily gained in height. As we continued to gain height views to the west began opening up over Port Pirie and Spencer Gulf. To the east the extensive former Gladstone ammunition dump could be seen across and thickly vegetated valley.

Soon we became aware of Heysen Trail markers, the first we had seen since we were about to enter the Barossa Valley near Pewsey Vale Peak. Continuing on for several kilometres we were surprised to come across two young men employed, as we came to know, under the then newly elected Federal Labor Government’s Community Employment Programme, busily constructing the Trail through the installation of trail markers. We could not pass up the opportunity to assist them in installing one of the markers. Later that afternoon we selected an attractive campsite on the roadside adjacent to Beetaloo Creek and the nearby Beetaloo property.

We continued to follow the road north the next morning until entering the extensive Beetaloo Reservoir catchment reserve. We were continuing to walk along the top of the ridge as it meandered north, passing the Beetaloo Reservoir hidden in a thickly vegetated valley to our east. The ridge we were following formed the western boundary of the catchment reserve. A very wide and extensive fire break which had replaced the minor road. In some places the fire break was 50 metres wide and completely devoid of any vegetation.

The Bluff with its high television broadcast tower slowly loomed closer, whilst we enjoyed increasingly spectacular views out to the west over Spencer Gulf. Eyre Peninsula on the other side of the gulf could now be made out. We had walked 14 kilometres and gained 400 metres in height during the morning when paused for lunch at The Bluff (~ 750 metres). From The Bluff we were treated also to wonderful views to the north.

The plan after lunch was to walk almost due east, descending along a ridge with the headwaters of Crystal Brook on the south and Ippinitchie Creek on the north, and then turn north to enter the Wirrabara Forest Reserve. In one of only several such incidents on the whole of the walk from Cape Jervis and Mount Babbage I lead my companions along the wrong route. Unfortunately I mistakenly took the wrong ridge, selecting what I thought was the correct walking track along a ridge leading off of The Bluff, but to the north of the ridge we were supposed to take, a track which petered out after several hundred metres. Before long we found ourselves plunging steeply through thick scrub into the headwaters of Ippinitchie Creek. After considerable effort we reached the bed of the creek where walking was marginally easier. Several kilometres later and now an hour behind schedule we finally reached TV Track which leads down from The Bluff, past the Wirrabara Forest Reserve headquarters and then onto Wirrabara. We followed the track, passing on our right the point where the walking trail we were supposed to follow down from The Bluff intersected with TV Track.

After passing the picturesque Wirrabara Arboretum, similar to the one we had camped in several nights before in the Bundaleer Forest Reserve, we stopped briefly at the Reserve headquarters to enquiry about the availably of water at the Ippinitchie camping ground, established for future Heysen Trail walkers, and our planned campsite that evening. Determining that water was available we continued east along the main road, finding the campsite several kilometres further on. After the effort of the morning and the disaster of the afternoon our camp was subdued that evening.

The following morning we walked west back towards the main ridge, passing through a mature Pinus radiata plantation. Reaching the western edge of the plantation a steep track (oddly named Apricot Track) lead us to the top of the ridge at Frypan Hill (718 metres). A fire trail (this time more modest) guided us north with spectacular views to the west over Spencer Gulf. The trail along the ridge formed the eastern boundary of the Telowie Gorge Conservation Park. The ridge began to slowly loose height as it commenced dipping into a steep gorge some kilometres ahead. Lunch was taken on the side of the trail, in isolated, thickly vegetated and rugged country.

Following lunch we continued to walk north for several kilometres, then just before the ridge started a dip steeply into the gorge ahead our route changed to the east into a deep valley, part of the headwaters of Telowie Creek. For several days we had been noticing strips of coloured marker tapes attached to vegetation which we surmised were to guide the Heysen Trail construction crew we had encountered several days before. Soon after reaching the valley floor the marker tapes lead us further east into a narrow gully. Then the markers stopped, causing us to waste some time trying to pick up the trail again. After some time was spent trying to locate further marker tapes we abandoned the effort, consulted our map of the area and picked a course to the north through a Pinus radiata plantation.

We followed various fire trails and then after passing through the last Pinus radiata plantation we were to encounter we commenced following a little used track along a road reserve. After reaching and passing over the historically important Port Germein Gorge road at Bangor we commenced following Survey Road north. Late in the afternoon we diverted east along a minor road for a short distance to an attractive spot on the banks of Stony Creek, our last campsite for the third stage of our walk.

Ever since the Heysen Trail was first mooted some graziers in the Melrose district had provided stiff opposition to the Trail passing near their properties. For this reason the following morning we walked the remainder of the stage into Melrose along well-defined road reserves. Whilst a more interesting and challenging route lay along un-fenced road reserves to the west of Survey Road we remained on the relatively non-controversial eastern side of Survey Road so as to avoid the risk of causing an ‘incident’. Mount Remarkable dominated the skyline ahead as we walked the 17 kilometres into Melrose, arriving at noon.

The stage concluded at the Melrose Post Office and as my companions rested I used the nearby public phone box to arrange for our vehicle to be brought down from nearby Wilmington for our return to Adelaide. We had been lent a Duke of Edinburgh Award Scheme four wheel drive for the stage and on our arrival in Burra ten days earlier it had been left with a local person who had agreed, during the period we were walking to Melrose to bring the vehicle up to friends at Wilmington, undertaking our food drop at Bundaleer in the process.

I wasn’t prepared to hear the news that the vehicle wasn’t in Wilmington and it was with trepidation that I rang Burra to find out the problem. The good news was that the vehicle was in good order and the bad news was that it was still in Burra. No real explanation was given as to why it was still in Burra but I was assured the vehicle would leave for Melrose immediately. Fortunately the North Star Hotel at Melrose has a reputation for great hospitality, which is where we spent much of the time we had to wait for the arrival of the vehicle, after showering at the nearby caravan park.

The vehicle duly arrived however the return to Adelaide required returning to Burra to drop off the driver.

The completion of the third stage was celebrated with great enthusiasm by my companions. Again there had been no un-planned withdrawals and we had achieved the milestone of reaching the Flinders Ranges. The next stage, in the spring of 1984 would bring us to the half-way point at the historic Kanyaka Ruins.

Jump to content:

• Introduction – The First End-to-End walk of the Heysen Trail
• Stage One – Cape Jervis to Cudlee Creek
• Stage Two – Cudlee Creek to Burra
• Stage Three – Burra to Melrose
• Stage Four – Melrose to Kanyaka Ruins
• Stage Five – Kanyaka Ruins to Aroona Hut
• Stage Six – Aroona Hut to Sliding Rock Mine
• Stage Seven – Sliding Rock Mine to Arkaroola
• Stage Eight – Arkaroola to Mount Babbage

It seemed no time at all since completing our Cape Jervis to Cudlee Creek walk before we re-assembled at Cudlee Creek on Tuesday 23 August 1983 to commence the second stage of our walk to Mount Babbage. Our next immediate destination was Burra in the Mid North.

Our number had reduced from the original eleven who had left Cape Jervis on 25 April that year although Carlien Melrose had re-joined us after walking the sections she had missed after leaving the first stage at Myponga. This had been done in stages, mainly on weekends. We had been joined by my cousin, Richard, who would walk with us for the first few days. John Dunn had been unable to escape his busy Penola medical practice, but Bob Nicolle, Lyn Steven, Cameron Storey, Dick Grant and Harold (Woody) Woodward were continuing.

One of the big considerations in planning the overall walk was making the Mid North section (part of the Northern Mount Lofty Ranges) as attractive as possible for our walk. The Heysen Trail had not been built beyond the Barossa Valley and we would not meet a built section of the Trail until we reached Hawker a few days into the fifth stage of the walk. Although hilly in parts, the Mid North has been heavily cleared, with little remnant vegetation. Vistas and views that inspire exhausted walkers were also likely to be missing for most of the walk and finding the best, most attractive route for the walk had been challenging.

Several possible routes had been discovered by close inspection of the 1:50,000 topographical-cadastral maps of the area. Several trips into the region in the weeks preceding the start of the second stage confirmed the most appropriate route. In fact some of the areas found provided a pleasant surprise in regard to walking quality. For the second stage I had contacted about 20 landowners to obtain permission to cross their properties. Only one had refused permission.

Following a brief photo session we left the Cudlee Creek kiosk and campground, crossed the River Torrens and followed the bitumen road to Chain of Ponds, passing the Millbrook Reservoir on our left. Just north of Chain of Ponds we left the bitumen and followed logging tracks in a section of the Mount Crawford Forest Reserve. The track rose gently, passing Simmonds Hill before we emerged onto grazing land. Crossing Checkers Hill Road we soon came to the summit of Mount Gould (531 metres), our lunch spot.

It had been an interesting morning, re-establishing friendships made in during the first stage. Everyone was pleased the walk was again wending its way north.

After lunch we followed a road reserve down from the summit of Mount Gould, joining and then following Norsworthy Road for several kilometres before diverging along a road reserve to the left and entering another section of the Forest Reserve. A steep descent into a creek system and a steeper rise out on the other side brought us to another road reserve which led us north through open farmland to Watts Gully Road. About a kilometre along the road we entered the Warren Conservation Park. Crossing a stile we followed a narrow walking trail through the Conservation Park, looking for a suitable campsite which we found about a kilometre inside the Park.

Despite the steepness of some sections of the trail we followed, our progress for the day had been excellent. Each lunch and campsite for the whole of the walk had been planned in advance and generally, as we had that day, we achieved our target.

As was our usual custom we left camp at about 8.00 am the next morning, and continued the delightful walk along a narrow trail through the Warren Conservation Park. After an hour we emerged onto grazing land, reaching a fire observation tower shortly afterwards. The Warren Reservoir was in plain view to the north and the South Para Reservoir could be seen to the west. Further out to the west, over Gulf Saint Vincent, ominous dark clouds were visible. The weather the previous day had been excellent but this, clearly, was not going to last.

Following a substantial track to the east we entered a mature Pinus radiata plantation. Our next break was adjacent to the Williamstown to Birdwood Road. Soon after the trail swung abruptly to the north and we began a gradual 125 metre ascent through a magnificent grove of native vegetation to the summit of Little Mount Crawford (525 metres) and then descended rapidly to the banks of the South Para River where we stopped for lunch. Talk at lunch centred on the approaching storm and whether we would be in camp before it arrived.

Immediately after lunch the trail took us steeply up to the summit of Mount Crawford (562 metres), before dropping just as steeply down the other side. Proceeding north we left and then re-entered another Pinus radiata plantation. After climbing a high ridge onto the Wirra Wirra Peaks (592 metres and 577 metres) we walked across open grazing land. The view with the rapidly approaching storm was spectacular. As we reached the microwave tower on the ridge the storm arrived. In just a few moments the rain was teeming down.

A kilometre to the north, in heavy rainfall, we reached the Ross Fire Track. The built section of the Heysen Trail went south, down a valley to the end of the currently built section a few kilometres on at Tweedies Gully. Our route however was to the east. We had planned to camp adjacent to the Ross Fire Track and found a suitable site several hundred metres up the Track. Within minutes of reaching the campsite everyone had their tents erected and had retreated inside to change into dry clothing to remain as dry as possible whilst preparing an evening meal. By 5.30 pm, as the rain continued to teem down, I had finished my meal and had got into my sleeping bag, managing to stay relatively dry. I hoped my companions were similarly comfortable. To venture outside to check would have resulted in becoming completely saturated in seconds.

The rain continued to fall throughout the night, lessening just before dawn. Light showers continued to fall as we had breakfast around a miserable fire, produced only by the combined heroic efforts of Bob and Woody for half an hour. Packing our wet tents (and for several – wet sleeping bags) we bid farewell to Richard who was walking down to Lyndoch to be picked up and taken to his home in Adelaide. We walked east up the Ross Fire Track to its junction with Trail Hill Road, then north around the back of the Pewsey Vale property along Corryton Park Road for a short distance and then Brownes Road. We had intended to climb the nearby Pewsey Vale Peak but the continuing drizzle and the low cloud obscuring the summit convinced us otherwise.

After crossing Jacob Creek we entered yet another Pinus radiata plantation and followed a series of logging tracks north, arriving at the back of Kaiserstuhl at lunch time.

The lunch site was soon festooned with drying tents, sleeping bags and other items. Fortunately the rain had ceased and gradual emergence of the sun and a light breeze was providing a valuable service. Whilst our equipment was drying Bob, Woody, Lyn and I climbed the 150 metres to the top of nearby Kaiserstuhl (600 metres). This attractive, distinctly German name was the original name of the peak which had been reinstated after it had been named Mount Kitchener during World War One. A feature of the summit, apart from the splendid views out to the west to Gulf Saint Vincent, was the dry stone walls running up to the trig point on the summit from several directions. In South Australia’s early days the fixing of property boundaries were often based on trig points at high points, necessitating fences to be laboriously constructed to those difficult locations.

The sun and the breeze had dried most of our equipment and after repacking we moved on, passing the Kaiserstuhl Conservation Park on our right and following a series of road reserves down to our campsite at Bethany Reserve on the banks of Tanunda Creek. We had arrived early which gave the opportunity to finish drying equipment that had not completely dried at Kaiserstuhl. Bethany was the site of the original settlement in the Barossa Valley by early German immigrants.

A short walk along Thiele Road and then Basedow Road the next morning brought us into Tanunda where we met the District Clerk of the local council and a reporter from the local newspaper. By chance we also met the proprietor of Heinemann Park, a local tourist complex incorporating a well-known restaurant. On learning of the purpose of the walk and proposed route through the Barossa Valley he offered to deliver us a cooked lunch at a pre-arranged location later that day – an offer that could not be turned down!

The original route planned through the Barossa Valley included crossing the North Para River via a swinging bridge, one of the few remaining in the state, but it had been washed away in the floods that followed the Ash Wednesday fires and was yet to be replaced. We crossed the river by a nearby vehicular bridge, and walked along a series of secondary and minor roads, reaching the Seppelt family crypt at Seppetsfield in time for our important lunch appointment. Lunch soon arrived – a selection of German sausage, cooked cabbage and strudel cake – not exactly a typical hikers lunch but much appreciated.

After lunch we continued to walk along several minor roads on the western side of the Barossa Valley and then a sealed road that passed under the Sturt Highway. Following minor roads enabled us to skirt around the western edge of Greenock and walk to the base of Belvidere, a peculiarly named local hill, part of the western range that defines the Barossa Valley. Leaving our packs, Bob, Woody, Lyn and I climbed the 100 metres elevation to the trig point on the summit (~ 390 metres). We used the opportunity to survey the country to the north, identifying the areas we would be walking through over the next few days. Our return to our waiting companions was delayed as Woody had lost his pedometer on the way up Belvidere, which despite much effort, could not be found. Minor roads took us north across the Greenock to Kapunda Road and then the Greenock Creek. Late in the afternoon we selected a campsite on a little used road reserve on the banks of a small creek. The owners of a nearby farmhouse were good enough to provide us with rain water. We were doubtful of the creek water because of the number of small pig yards we had seen on a number of the farms we had passed by that afternoon.

The weather had cleared up and the next morning promised further improvement. Walking along the secondary and minor roads towards Kapunda was difficult because of the muddy sections on the mainly gravel roads. Frequent clay sections caused mud to build up under our boots and walking become arduous, and treacherous! Soon after crossing a ford over the River Light we entered Kapunda. After passing the old mine workings on our right we reached the main road at the southern end of the town and walked to the Post Office, our rendezvous point for our food resupply, in doing so, and to our amusement, passing a police speed detection unit in the process.

Our arrival in Kapunda coincided with a major anti-uranium protest rally over several days at Roxby Downs. We had erected our Jubilee 150 flag at the Post Office on our arrival and members of the group soon found, whilst visiting local shops for milkshakes etc, that we were being linked to this distant dispute.

Our food re-supply arrived just before noon and after packing we walked north out of the town along the main bitumen road. Several kilometres on we left the bitumen road and diverted to the north-east along a series of minor roads, crossing Allen Creek along the way. Several hours walking later, as we approached the historic Anlaby property, we crossed the River Light for the second time that day. We crossed by way of an old concrete bridge that had been built by the Dutton family that had owned Anlaby for a number of generations. I later heard that this bridge was one of the first steel re-enforced concrete structures built in South Australia. Another interesting feature in the immediate area was the phantom township of Victoria that was to straddle the River Light a kilometre or so to the west. Planned and surveyed soon after the discovery of copper at Kapunda by speculators, the town was just too far from Kapunda for miners to commute to and from the mines and the blocks were never taken up. The cadastral topographical map we were carrying showed just how extensive the town that was to be – but not a single building was ever built.

Passing the entrance to the Anlaby homestead we soon reached the vast Anlaby woolshed, near where the Mosey family, the owners of Anlaby, whom I’d met several weeks before whilst reconnoitring possible route for the walk, had given us permission to camp. The substantial nature of the many buildings on the property, from the shearing shed, the commodious shearers quarters and the meat house, was a fascinating insight into a past era and was the subject of much discussion around our campfire that night.

We woke the next morning to a severe frost and we were glad to start walking as soon as possible in order to warm up. We continued north along a minor road, through the small Buchanan settlement with its long abandoned hall, and soon came to and crossed Tamma Creek and the Marrabel to Eudunda road. This marked the start of the remarkable Tothill Range, a narrow north-south strike range that we were to walk along for the next 25 kilometres.

Discovering the Tothill Range had been quite a bonus. The Tothill Range forms the longest continuous area of native vegetation in the Mid North and was the ideal route for us to follow. Following the narrow ridge we slowly gained height and soon views over the country on either side of the range and to the south opened up. Mount Lofty and the Barossa hills were in plain view. Minor roads crossed the range every three or four kilometres. Lunch was taken at one of these crossings. In the mid afternoon we reached Smith Hill (615 metres). Later in the afternoon we walked down the eastern side of the ridge and camped next to a farm dam. Our route had be directly north for the entire day, which coupled with the great scenery and vegetation and the warm day after the freezing start had everyone in high spirits.

We returned to the ridge top the next morning and continued our journey north. Progress was slower as the ridge had become more rugged and was thickly vegetated in places. After passing Webb Gap we had lunch on Lagoon Hill (~ 690 metres), with excellent views of Apoinga and Porters Lagoon to the north-west and out onto the Murray plans to the west. Shortly after lunch we reached Niblet Gap where we left the Tothill Range, and walked down minor roads to the east, passing Brady Creek and Emu Downs. Soon after crossing over the Morgan to Whyalla pipeline we entered the Hallelujah Hills. A rough bush track led into the hills along a road reserve. We had an enjoyable but exhausting day on the northern end of the Tothill Range so we selected the first suitable campsite. Nestled in a thick grove of low trees and shrubs we soon had tea prepared and consumed and most retired early. Strong winds sprang up during the night and the surrounding vegetation continued to give loud warming of each approaching wind gust, resulting in a disturbed sleep for some.

The walk north-east through the Hallelujah Hills the following morning was an excellent experience, but all too soon we emerged from the eastern edge of the hills. Turning north we walked along undulating foothills and reached the Burra Creek and the Worlds End Gorge by mid-morning. Crossing the creek proved difficult but after scrambling across a convenient fallen River Red Gum to the other side we were able to commence a delightful walk upstream through the gorge. After five kilometres we stopped for lunch at Thirty Pound Pool, perhaps so named after the weight of a fish once pulled from the river at that point. Following the Burra Creek upstream again we established camp in the mid-afternoon, enabling Bob and I time to climb 260 metres to the summit of the nearby Burra Hill (608 metres).

The wind was blowing a gale as we reached the summit, and as a consequence we didn’t stay long after leaving the customary note in a receptacle in the substantial cairn at the summit. (This I later retrieved when I re-visited Burra Hill in 1986 with students from the Penola High School undertaking the Burra to Niblet Gap stage of the Jubilee 150 Youth Trek.)

We were in good spirits as we left our campsite the next morning, and continued walking north on the banks of the Burra Creek. We were due in Burra after lunch, the end point of the second stage and quarter of the way to Mount Babbage. By mid-morning we had reached the historic Princess Royal homestead and delighted in crossing the ancient swing bridge across the Burra Creek into the homestead’s extensive gardens. We were fortunate to meet the manager of the property who explained some of the history of the property and the magnificent two-storey homestead.

Following the road from the property further north towards Burra we stopped for lunch as we approached the southern outskirts of the town. Soon after lunch we were walking through the town’s streets and arrived at Market Square in the town centre at 2.00 pm. It had been an excellent walk with no unplanned withdrawals. Our schedule had been maintained and navigation had been free of incident.

It would be eight months before we assembled again at Burra to re-commence our journey north. By the end of the next stage we would be in the Flinders Ranges. Seven days of walking through the Mid North remained however and whilst the challenge of finding an interesting route between the Barossa Valley and Burra had been met the further challenge to make the walk from Burra to the southern end of the Flinders Ranges at Crystal Brook interesting and enjoyable remained. Hours of map reading and several field trips would be required in the months ahead to select the best possible route.

Jump to content:

• Introduction – The First End-to-End walk of the Heysen Trail
• Stage One – Cape Jervis to Cudlee Creek
• Stage Two – Cudlee Creek to Burra
• Stage Three – Burra to Melrose
• Stage Four – Melrose to Kanyaka Ruins
• Stage Five – Kanyaka Ruins to Aroona Hut
• Stage Six – Aroona Hut to Sliding Rock Mine
• Stage Seven – Sliding Rock Mine to Arkaroola
• Stage Eight – Arkaroola to Mount Babbage

At 12.30 pm on Tuesday 25 April 1983, Anzac Day, a diverse and heavily laden group of eleven bushwalkers set off from the Cape Jervis jetty. There immediate destination was Cudlee Creek, ten walking days away. There ultimate destination was Mount Babbage at the northern tip of the Flinders Ranges, and their route was to be along built and yet to be built sections of the Heysen Trail. After many months of planning the walk, a South Australian Jubilee 150 event, was about to get underway.

At the time the walk began on Anzac Day Monday 25 April 1983 the only built sections of the Trail were from Newland Hill to the Barossa Valley and from Hawker to Parachilna Gorge.

Eleven was a large group to set out on an extended bushwalk, especially given the diverse range of people who had been attracted to participate in the walk. The group comprised males and females, aged from 20 to 60 years plus, and people with extensive bushwalking experience to those fit but with limited walking experience. Participating was Bob Nicolle, a commercial orchid grower, from Reynella; Cameron Storey, a tertiary student, from Hahndorf; Carlien Melrose, retired, from Adelaide; Dick Grant, a farmer from Penola; Graham Duke, a motor mechanic, from Yankalilla; Harold Woodward (Woody), retired, from Adelaide; John Dunn, a doctor, from Penola; Lyn Steven, home duties, from Adelaide; Monica Osbourne, retired, from Adelaide; Rob West, a Uniting Church minister, from Adelaide; and myself, Andrew Eastick, then a sheep farmer at Penola – a diverse group indeed.

In planning the walk my policy had been to accept allcomers – within reason – but to stress that each individual had to accept the need for the walking schedule to be maintained and they would therefore have to take responsibility for their own performance and ability to stay within the group. No-one would be asked to retire from the walk – that decision was left to each individual. Although I had meet all of the walkers in the weeks leading up to our arrival at Cape Jervis, most of the walkers were strangers to each other. As a consequence each walker was fully self-contained with regard to their food and equipment. In the circumstances this was the best arrangement. I reasoned that if retirement from the walk became necessary the effect on the other walkers would be minimal.

Following introductions, the mandatory photography session with our Jubilee 150 flag recording the start of the project, and farewells to friends and family members who had gathered to support us, we headed off.

Walking near a number of shacks we proceeded south adjacent to the coast, passing through thin scrub. Soon after Lands End our route along the coast turned east. After four kilometres we took our first break at Fishery Beach, where Fishery Creek flows into the sea. The Heysen Trail in this area had not yet been built. The route we were taking had been carefully selected after consultation with Trail builder, Terry Lavender. Permission had been obtained from the property owners whose land we need to cross because road reserves, made and unmade, were not always present where we wanted to go, and unmade road reserves are not always indicated by a delineating fence line. In this area we were walking on a coastal reserve, although it was unmarked and it was likely that in some places we would be on private property.

The extensive Ash Wednesday fires, just two months earlier, had resulted in uncertainty about some parts of our route ahead, although the early break to the season had alleviated concern about access to water.

Leaving Fishery Beach we continued following the coastline, making use of occasional tracks leading in the appropriate direction. The numerous south flowing creeks, including Cooalinga Creek and then Rarkang Creek, cutting deeply across out path, slowed progress. Late in the afternoon, after passing Naiko Inlet, where Maurano Creek flows into the sea, we reached Blowhole Beach. After a short break we commenced a steep 250 metre climb over Cobbler Hill, reaching our first campsite soon after in the headwaters of Aaron Creek, just inside the Deep Creek Conservation Park. The rigours of the first day (actually a half day), and particularly the steep ascent away from the coast, had taken their toll and everyone had retired to their tents by 8.00 pm.

We woke to a cold and misty morning. Soon after 8.00 am we headed out, walking east through thick, wet scrub, crossing the headwaters of Aaron Creek and then Tent Rock Creek along the way. The weather improved as we passed near Tent Hill and we commenced down the walking track to where The Deep Creek flows into the sea, our planned lunch stop. Despite the large numbers in the walking party we were making good progress and keeping to our schedule. Immediately after lunch we walked upstream for a kilometre along scrub-choked The Deep Creek, and crossed the creek after considerable difficulty. Climbing 150 metres above the creek bed we found and followed a suitable track to the east.

Passing an abandoned house we continued following the track north-east towards Tapanappa Rocks, before again heading east and crossing Tapanappa Creek. Most of the surrounding scrub in this area had been burnt during the Ash Wednesday fires. The creeks, in particular, exhibited considerable erosion from the heavy opening rains which occurred only weeks after the fire. Late in the afternoon we followed a steeply descending track south-east and soon arrived at our planned campsite on Boat Harbour Beach. Some of the walkers had developed problems during the afternoon. Monica Osborne and Graham Duke had aggravated old knee injuries and Rob West had severe foot problems. Could we be facing the first withdrawals within days of starting?

John Dunn and I had an early morning swim in the sea before leaving camp the next morning. After skirting the cliff tops for several kilometres we reached the sandy Tunkalilla Beach. Monica was now having severe problems with her knees. As we passed Tunkalilla Downs homestead she decided to withdraw. By the time arrangements had been made for Monica’s return to Adelaide the group was well strung out along the beach. After crossing First Creek as it entered the sea and then Tunkalilla Creek at the eastern end of the five kilometre long beach we walked inland again, onto the Balquhidder property.

We had arranged to have lunch on the front lawn of the manager’s residence. Whilst preparing lunch Rob West and Graham Duke decided to retire because of their foot, leg and knee problems. Also whilst having lunch John Dunn caused a minor stir when, whilst boiling water for a cup of tea, his metho cooker, nested away from the wind under an ornamental shrub ignited the shrub. Fortunately the situation was quickly brought under control.

Following lunch our smaller group walked along the gravel road past the Balquhidder shearing shed before crossing Ballaparudda Creek. Soon after crossing the creek we commenced following a road reserve that lead us to the south-east and back to the coast. For the remainder of the afternoon we walked east along the coast, crossing Coolawang Creek where it entered the sea. In the late afternoon, after walking along Parsons Beach we reached Waitpinga Beach where we selected a campsite in the sandhills adjacent to the Waitpinga Creek estuary.

Early the next morning fishermen were already dotted at intervals along the beach as we walked through the sand to the eastern end of Waitpinga Beach and up onto Newland Head. The next few hours provided great enjoyment as we walked north-east along the top of spectacular 100 metre high coastal cliffs. An interesting find along the way was several groves of Barb Wire Bush (Daviesa lectinata). This fearsome bush evoked considerable interest and its true identity was not known until I returned with Lyn Stevens several months later to take samples for identification. In the late morning we diverted inland across farmland to the then start of the built section of the Heysen Trail near Newland Hill.

Lunch was taken at the start of the built section. Reaching this point was an important milestone and after lunch we walked north along a road reserve in high spirits. After negotiating a small swing bridge over Hall Creek we walked through cleared forest reserve land before joining Tugwell Road which lead us over Sheoak Hill (179 metres) and down into Back Valley. After crossing Back Valley Road we walked for about a kilometre up Keen Road and selected a campsite on the roadside adjacent to a large farm dam. Fresh milk was able to be obtained from a nearby diary. There had been no further retirements and the remaining members of the group appeared fit and well. Despite the ultimate goal of Mount Babbage being so distant, there was already great confidence that we would succeed in reaching that far away point.

Several of us made use of a nearby overhead fire water outlet for a (very) cold shower that night and early the next morning John Dunn, as the early morning mist hovered just above the water, swam in the nearby dam. We continued to walk north-west along Keen Road the next morning, soon reaching its junction with Hancock Road which we followed west for a kilometre before heading north again through a large plantation of young Pinus radiata. We reached the Inman Valley Road soon after, and arrived at Inman Valley mid morning.

After a series of telephone calls using the public telephone next to the store, advising friends and relatives of our progress, we followed the Trail north out of the valley, over Sugarloaf Hill (~ 310 metres) and onto our prearranged lunchtime rendezvous with Graham Duke’s wife, Margaret, at Moon Hill (356 metres). This was to be our only food resupply point for the ten days of the stage.

After our lunch break, extended by the need to sort out and repack our equipment and supplies, we walked along a little used track before diverting along a picturesque walking trail through the Myponga Conservation Park. After emerging on the western side of the Conservation Park the afternoon was spent walking through farmland and then tree lined gravel roads. Late in the afternoon we reached the sealed Inman Valley to Myponga Road where permission was obtained from a local dairy farmer to camp in a nearby paddock.

For the second successive night fresh milk was able to be brought direct from a diary and excellent milk coffees were a feature as we camped adjacent to a large farm dam. A bird alighting on the water soon after we retired to our tents brought several suggestions that John Dunn must be having yet another swim!

Our route was now to the east and soon we were walking along the northern edge of the Yulte Conservation Park. Soon after passing the Conservation Park, as we reached a high ridge overlooking Myponga, we had another withdrawal. Carlien Melrose had found the several steep climbs the previous afternoon difficult and with four days walking remaining to the end of the first stage at Cudlee Creek she felt it was best to retire as we passed close to Myponga. We had been walking together for five days and it was a sad occasion as we watched Carlien walk off towards Myponga to arrange transport back to Adelaide.

We continued east, reaching the Myponga to Victor Harbour Road which we followed south for several kilometres. Diverting east again we walked along a rough track, following a high ridge to the summit of Mount Cone (395 metres) where we stopped for lunch.

Soon after lunch we reached Haskett Road which we followed to the Mount Compass Butter Factory and then crossed the main Adelaide to Victor Harbour Road. The Trail continued east through farmland to Nangkita where we turned north, reaching our planned campsite on the banks of the Finniss River in the late afternoon.

We woke next morning to damp, foggy conditions. The meanderings of the Trail over the last few days now changed to a reasonably consistent northerly track. Passing through the burnt out Mount Magnificent Conservation Park the continuing, if not thickening, fog influenced us to pass up the opportunity to climb to the top of nearby Mount Magnificent. Emerging from the Conservation Park we walked north along Blackfellows Creek Road, then diverted through scrub and onto Kyeema Conservation Park. Just prior to lunch we entered extensive Pinus radiata plantations. Lunch was taken in a convenient clearing.

The steady northward progress of the morning was very satisfying. Much of the afternoon was spent walking along firebreaks and amongst Pinus radiata plantations, crossing the Meadows to Mount Compass Road and Meadows Creek in the process. We had arranged earlier to meet Graham Duke where we crossed over the Meadows to Mount Compass Road. Through his wife we had received a message that he believed he had recovered sufficiently to enable him to complete the remainder of the walk. As he had not yet arrived we left a conspicuous note advising him of our proposed campsite and moved on. We left the Pinus radiata plantations behind as we walked first along Mallawa Road and then Claren Road. Just north of the Claren Park property we established our campsite on the roadside. Graham arrived soon after we arrived.

We re-entered Pinus radiata plantations again soon after leaving the campsite the next morning. Several hours later we emerged from the plantation, passing the Police Training Reserve on our left. Soon after walking through the Glen Bold property we crossed the Onkaparinga River via a substantial suspension bridge, then followed a gravel road into Mylor.

A late lunch was taken in the town adjacent to a deli that sold a greater number of milkshakes than usual that day! Walking for the remainder of the day was varied, ranging from rough bush tracks in Mylor Reserve and in the National Trust’s Engelbrook Reserve where we crossed Cox‘s Creek, the verge of busy roads, and through quiet suburban streets. After passing through the centre of Bridgewater we passed John Dunn’s former Bridgewater Mill (a distant forebear of our John Dunn) and followed the mill race upstream to Cox’s Creek. We walked upstream along the banks of Cox’s Creek and passed under the South Eastern Freeway. Traversing parts of the Mount Lofty Golf Course we reached our campsite at Woodhouse Scout Centre. Although we erected and prepared our tents, whilst finishing tea a report on the small portable radio I carried indicated a storm warning for the Adelaide Hills later that night. Hurried arrangements were then made to sleep overnight in a nearby shed.

Although the rain had stopped by morning, conditions were very wet and low cloud enveloped the area. Passing vegetable fields in the Piccadilly district we followed a series of bitumen roads, arriving at the burnt out summit of Mount Lofty (727 metres) in the mid-morning.

There was a large group to greet as when we arrived. Carlien Melrose and her husband Ron; Kym Bonython and John Mitchell from the Jubilee 150 Board; Virginia Balmain from the Duke of Edinburgh Award Scheme and a reporter and cameraman from Channel Seven’s State Affair programme. Nearly an hour and a half later the formalities, the filming, had been completed and we left the summit.

Lunch was taken adjacent to the trail in the Cleland Conservation Park. Like the previous day, our afternoon walk was a mixture of bush tracks through Cleland, Horsnell Gully and Morialta Conservations Parks, busy bitumen roads and quiet country tracks. Early in the afternoon we passed over Rockdale Hill (~ 540 metres), providing extensive views over Adelaide and out to Gulf Saint Vincent. Walking past the Norton Summit Hotel in the mid afternoon proved too great a temptation and an enjoyable fifteen minutes was spent in the front bar. Struggling up the last steep slope of the day as we left Morialta Conservation Park heading for our campsite in the grounds of the Norton Summit Youth Hostel, we readily concluded that this had been the most difficult day of the walk thus far. We had left the Mount Lofty ridge three times since leaving Mount Lofty late that morning, having to regain several hundred metres of height each time to return to the top of the ridge.

The excellent weather of the first seven days of the walk had not been sustained and more rain was threatening. Some rain again fell during the night and it was overcast but fine when we left the Youth Hostel next morning. Walking first along a gravel road and then a bitumen road we passed through Monacute Heights before entering scrub. We followed a long ridge as it steadily dropped 350 metres in height to Deep Creek. After following Deep Creek downstream for a kilometre we crossed the creek and followed up a gravel road adjacent to a major tributary. Soon after we left the road and entered Montacute Conservation Park. We walked up a long ridge, gaining once again all of the height we had lost earlier that morning dropping down to Deep Creek. It commenced raining as we left the Conservation Park, lightly at first and then heavy. We followed a gravel road east and then entered a Pinus radiata plantation.

Lunch was taken as we crammed into a small pump shed near the Cudlee Creek Forest Headquarters. Our map showed a nearby feature, Mount Misery, about one and a half kilometres to the north-west. We all agreed that represented how we felt as we struggled to stay dry and keep warm.

Most of the Pinus radiata plantations in the area had been burnt in the Ash Wednesday fires and the wet, overcast conditions created an eerie atmosphere as we walked north after lunch. We were now only an hour’s walking from the Cudlee Creek township. As we descended we dropped under the clouds, left the burnt out Pinus radiata plantation, and joined a track which followed Holland Creek downstream to its junction with the River Torrens and then onto Gorge Road at the Cudlee Creek kiosk and camping area.

We had reached the end of the first of the eight stages of the journey to Mount Babbage at the northern end of the Flinders Ranges. It seemed to me such a long time ago that our much larger group left Cape Jervis. I was pleased we had been able to maintain the planned schedules without difficulty, and pathfinding, even on the unmarked sections of the trail, had been relatively straight forward.

Although a number of participants had retired, this was not entirely unexpected and I had deliberately started the trek at its southern, populated end, enabling those having to retire to do so with a minimum of difficulty. With myself, Dick Grant, Bob Nicolle, Cameron Storey, Lyn Steven, Harold (Woody) Woodward and John Dunn had successfully completed the first stage.

The next stage to Burra was planned to commence from Cudlee Creek in the spring. I hoped that they could each join in that and all of the remaining stages. The project was already proving to be a great adventure.

Jump to content:

• Introduction – The First End-to-End walk of the Heysen Trail
• Stage One – Cape Jervis to Cudlee Creek
• Stage Two – Cudlee Creek to Burra
• Stage Three – Burra to Melrose
• Stage Four – Melrose to Kanyaka Ruins
• Stage Five – Kanyaka Ruins to Aroona Hut
• Stage Six – Aroona Hut to Sliding Rock Mine
• Stage Seven – Sliding Rock Mine to Arkaroola
• Stage Eight – Arkaroola to Mount Babbage