Rain can put a dampener on many walks but not those in the far north “beyond the Heysen”. A small cadre of Friends have been attempting to emulate the feat of our patron Warren Bonython, and follow the spine of the Flinders Ranges to Mt Hopeless. This has been planned in weekly stages, over the last three years and at first we didn’t realise the blessing bestowed by torrential rains.
Last year on the day of the drive up, a cloud burst just below Arkaroola closing the roads including the highway to Leigh Creek. Left cooling our heels in Hawker we cursed the skies. In fact the sky provided the answer. The roads may take days to dry out, but once the sky clears it is a quick and safe route into the outback. A route that the locals use all the time.
This summer we watched the exceptional wet season unfold in the far north and centre of South Australia. This year’s expedition in the first week of April, from Arkaroola to Mt Hopeless, promised something special, and flying was always going to be part of it.
Flying into Arkaroola from Rawnsley Park opened up an entirely new adventure, and an opportunity to see the country after the spate. The creeks were flowing, the water holes brimming, and the country wearing its first flush of green in 20 years. From dust to lush in the blink of amazed eyes, and the realisation that in good years the far north offers a new range of walking experience.
This summer we watched the exceptional wet season unfold in the far north and centre of South Australia. This year’s expedition in the first week of April, from Arkaroola to Mt Hopeless, promised something special, and flying was always going to be part of it. However the rains teased us once again, with the station landing strips being damaged by flood.
Like the search for Shangri-la we knew that it was green just over the horizon and all we needed was a lift. This time it came by the serendipitous opening of the Arkaroola scenic helicopter service the week before our departure.
Despite being green, that plain is as barren and bleak as any I have trodden. I am happy to never see it again. Enough to know that Mt Hopeless is well named and I would not recommend it to anyone. Better to start or end the trek at Mt Babbage.
Making flexible plans is a part of any wilderness walk, so we were dropped off at Mt Hopeless, happy to walk south to Arkaroola over seven days, with high expectations of green, green grass leading us home. And what a boon that helicopter gave us, allowing a one way trek over the nearly 30 km gibber from Mt Hopeless to Terrapinna Springs. Our original plan required out and back, and despite being green, that plain is as barren and bleak as any I have trodden. I am happy to never see it again. Enough to know that Mt Hopeless is well named and I would not recommend it to anyone. Better to start or end the trek at Mt Babbage where some of the early Heysen enthusiasts had hoped to end our trail. Taking the Heysen Trail to Mt Babbage is no longer on the agenda but it is a good destination for wilderness walkers.
At Terrapinna Springs the water climbed the gorge walls, and Hamilton creek gurgled beside us for two days, only to be replaced by Yudnamutna Gorge which out did itself with cascades and waterfalls.
Going “beyond Heysen” is a common urge among the Friends after finishing at Parachilna Gorge. At least three groups have made the effort to reach Mt Hopeless, but I can add that when the rains come the far north offers something truly special and by taking to the skies you can make it happen.
A link to the walk notes is available on the Friends’ website at:
www.heysentrail.asn.au/heysen-trail/beyond-the-heysen/