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Willow Brewery, Pichi Richi

There are many years of history along our trails, but how much do we know about it! Old majestic buildings, scratching in the earth from an old mine or a broken down farm house. All were once the dreams of our forefathers, a story to be told of hope and hardship and now, just shattered aspirations.

All of our trails, including the Heysen Trail are about the journey, not the destination. There are people in our organisation that are passionate about birds, animals, history and geology, but how much do the rest of us really appreciate, as we saunter past, heading towards our destination.

Over time maybe, with some help from these passionate members, we can in a small way bridge this gap in our knowledge and enjoy the journey more.

As you walk through Pichi Richi Pass on the Heysen Trail, you come off a rocky ridge to the west of the railway, then follow the rail line in a general northern direction for several kilometres, before coming to a small railway station called “Willows Halt” and a stone building adjacent. This area appears on Heysen Trail, Northern Guide Map 3.9. This is a part of the story about that building.

Willow Brewery, Pichi Richi

Extract from Beer Barons or Bankrupts? Early Brewers in South Australia by Alison Painter

The decade of the 1870s was a period of growth in Port Augusta…

He actually built the hotel before the licence was granted and there was concern by locals in case it was refused, there being opposition from certain quarters.

During the same period a brewery was established in Pichi Richi, the Pass between Port Augusta and Quorn where the narrow gauge railway was under construction. The brewery built by William Beauchamp, licensee of the Globe Hotel in Port Augusta and previously at Pichi Richi Inn, was formally opened on 3 July 1879 and named Pichi Richi. Charles Gray, late of Beltana, was the brewer in charge and his ability was sufficient guarantee of the quality of the ale brewed, stated the Port Augusta Dispatch.

Early the following year Beauchamp was licensee of the other inn in Pichi Richi which became known as ‘Beauchamp’s’, and the brewery had changed hands. William Taylor, owner and licensee of Taylor’s Hotel in Port Augusta, purchased the brewery when Beauchamp moved to Melrose.

William Taylor was well known in and around Port Augusta and the north. He had become very successful in latter years after a difficult time in the mid-1860s when licensee of the Hookina Hotel which he had built in 1862. At the time the drought was having a ruinous effect everywhere and by 1866 he was having trouble paying his debts as there was virtually no trade. His situation improved for him later, as in 1877 he came to Port Augusta and built and hotel known as Taylor’s (later Exchange) on Commercial Road at a cost of £3,000. He actually built the hotel before the licence was granted and there was concern by locals in case it was refused, there being opposition from certain quarters. On the day Taylor returned from the hearing of the Licensing Bench in Clare the local brass band played outside the hotel in celebration.

Taylor was licensee until 1880 when he sold the hotel to William Knapman of Port Pirie for £11,000, a remarkable increase in value.

When Taylor took possession of the brewery in Pichi Richi, which he renamed Willow, Charles Gray, in his customary way, moved on and Charles Williams, son of John Williams of Nuriootpa became the brewer and also licensee of Beauchamp’s hotel from 1881-82 when it closed. By late 1881 Taylor was offering the lease of the brewery for seven or ten years. The advertisement stated the brewery was a first-class stone building complete with all necessary brewing equipment and an aerated water machine. In the usual way of selling agents the hyperbole was patent:

The site of the above brewery is unquestionably the best in the North. It is convenient to a railway station, surrounded by the Flinders Range Mountains, is thoroughly protected from the summer hot winds, and as for wood and water it is simply a matter of help yourself, and from the rapidly increasing population in the North, this presents an opportunity rarely to be met of making a rapid fortune.

Evidently no one was tempted by the promise of a ‘rapid fortune’ and brewing continued at the Willow Brewery.

The reason for the sale may have been because Taylor had intentions of building a brewery in Port Augusta and in July 1880 had purchased an allotment in Tassie Street near the waterfront. In September 1880, as the transfer of the property was being finalised, he was involved in a court case with Thomas Sara, a timber merchant. The case was actually two claims – Sara was claiming £100 damages against Taylor for libellous words, while Taylor was claiming £100 damages against Sara for defective work on the construction of two fermenting tuns he had ordered in March. Apparently Taylor had called Sara ‘ a damned rogue’ because the tuns leaked and would not hold beer. After a day-long hearing Taylor was awarded damages of £26 10s 9d. Charles Williams, brewer at Pichi Richi, later told the Port Augusta Dispatch journalist sixteen hogsheads of beer, worth about £68, had been lost from the faulty tuns. In early 1881 Taylor was advertising bottled ale and porter, brewed in Pichi Richi, and cordials available from his ‘new bottling establishment’ on Tassie Street. Later that year he built his third hotel, the Extension, in the ‘suburbs’ of Port Augusta and was licensee from October 1881 to June 1882.

Taylor’s activities in Port Augusta were curtailed when he returned to the Hookina Hotel in 1882. In January 1883, the William Brewery in Pichi Richi burnt down; the fire was thought to have started when sparks from the engine of a train blew on to the roof. The railway line that ran close behind the brewery was at about the same level as the roof of the brewery and, as the upper section of the building was constructed of timber, fire took hold rapidly. This was the end of brewing in Pichi Richi and in 1884 Taylor, who was in ill-health, offered all his properties in Port Augusta and Hookina for sale; he died in 1886.

The building up until recently was operated as the Old Willows Brewery Restaurant.

 

Historical photo source: SLSA B9350, http://images.slsa.sa.gov.au/mpcimg/09500/B9350.htm

A Gentleman Calls…

A true business person always rings for an appointment before calling on the Manager of a company with whom they wish to do business, usually with a hint of something really beneficial to that business.

This article was written for The Trailwalker by George during his illness and was completed in March 2007.

So it was sometime in 1990 when George Driscoll, the Manager of the Scout Outdoor Centre received a visit from a well presented gentleman, Neville Southgate, President of the Friends of the Heysen Trail.

Neville’s proposal was that the Scout Shop should sponsor a bush-walking program with the Friends providing the Leaders. There was to be no financial commitment from the shop other than handling bookings and promotion. The idea was to get a new group of people walking on the Heysen and other trails to discover the enjoyment group walking can bring.

George felt that this was the basis of a good idea. However, always wanting to be in full control he felt that the leaders should be paid staff members of the shop rather

George Driscoll

George Driscoll

than relying on volunteers from another organization. George realized that there might be a great deal of good will generated for the Scout Shop through its friendly staff members. When new walkers needed gear they would know where to get it through the personal contact made on the walks. Thus the Pathfinders program began.

George remembers the first walk led by Scott on the coast near Inman Valley. It was a long enough walk and some of the party including George appeared to be wilting a bit. Scott, ever the good leader suggested, “We can take a short cut here or take the longer way back, what do you think?” George favoured the short cut but up piped Kay, then on an early date with Ian, “Lets take the long way!”

The Pathfinders first weekend away in 1991 was at Riverton. Eager participants travelled by bus on Friday night. Accommodation was booked at the two small Hotels. Well known Friends walkers Terry and Francis, Colin and Marlene, Terry and Val, Ian and Kay, George and Elfi met therefore the first time as Pathfinders and are still good friends. They all regard that weekend at Riverton as something special in their lives. One thing we all remember is that our Leader Barbara, that effervescent little bundle of energy, could eat so much!

Jill rang George first thing Monday morning with “At least I don’t lose people!”

Darren, who arranged a wonderful array of walks, led the first Pathfinder trip to Tassie. Daryl, our host at Lemonthyme Lodge stopped the bus on the road to the Lodge to chat for some 5 minutes to another driver. “This is a bunch of South Australians I’ve got here in the bus.” This introduction to “Tassie Time” set the mood for a great walking holiday. It was the first walking trip for Liz who now leads many walks for the Friends.

Other prominent Friends who started out with the Pathfinders are David and Ralph, Maintenance Section Leaders. Dr Terry established the protocol for first aid requirements for Heysen walk leaders and walkers. Then there is the “Walking Mafia”, Darce, Lorraine, Marguerite, Chris and Norma. They enjoyed many Pathfinder Canoe trips led by Tim, who gave them their name as they always ganged up against him! Now they help in the Friends office.

Pathfinders Walking ProgramImagine spending the night out on a tractor, with no idea where you are! That incident convinced Barbara and Spence that walking with a group and a responsible leader would be a good idea, so they joined Pathfinders. Spence went on to become one of the first fully accredited day walk leaders for the Friends. Another much respected Pathfinder/Friend was the late Geoff Hunken whose best beer ever was the one that George presented to him at Wilpena Pound at the end of a challenging walk/climb led by Tim to a remote peak. Then there is Sue, a keen sports person who arrived at one of George’s walks and after checking the route said, “I’d rather play golf” and disappeared! Nevertheless, she became an ardent walker and produced stunning photographs on numerous walks.

The first overnight walking trip for the Friends was to Burra. Our Burra resident member Mike put together a great walk and had locals with walkie-talkies on hand to ensure safety. As it happened one walker had a medical problem and we greatly appreciated this support. On totting up the accounts Sadie and George discovered that they had made a tidy profit for the Friends while they were only trying to break even. Hence the idea of staging enjoyable events for members while providing income for the work of the organization was born.

Jill, leading her first walk for the Friends, took a minor wrong turn, and was corrected by George. Jill took revenge some months later after George had his Friends group “involuntarily separated.” Jill rang George first thing Monday morning with “At least I don’t lose people!”

All the Pathfinders mentioned wanted to put something back into walking as well as enjoy the company of new like-minded people. Hence they joined the Friends of the Heysen Trail. While this sounds like a mass exodus from the Pathfinders most kept up joint membership and value their time spent with the Pathfinders.

The aim of this story is to acknowledge the contribution members of the Pathfinders have made to the Friends and the fun they generated by doing so. It is recognized that many of the names would not mean much to newer members. However, the biggest message is to encourage our “End-to-Enders” who are making great new friendships to widen their circle and to help with the running of the organization.

As the gentleman who called on George over fifteen years ago promised, “It will be a life enhancing experience!”

Pathfinders still exist as part of a much wider professional program beyond what was done in the 90’s. The young bushwalking leaders of those days are now high achievers in Commerce, Industry, Science, Law, Education and Outdoor Pursuits.

Jack Marcelis elected as Honorary Member

Jack has been an active member of the Friends for well over 10 years working in the office in a very professional and business like way.

Jack Marcellis

Jack Marcellis

More recently he has taken on more responsibility in the smooth running of the office/shop, purchasing consumables, maps, books and training office volunteers and setting up computer programs as office coordinator.

On the telephone and at the counter his enthusiasm and knowledge of the Heysen Trail makes him an invaluable member of the team.

David Beaton elected as Honorary Member

David has contributed greatly to the activities of the Friends. After joining he quickly became a Walk Leader and a Council Member, a role he continues in to this time.

David Beaton

David Beaton

He has led many walks over the years and the instigator of the very successful millennium walks now known as the End-to-End walks.

He has not only walked the Heysen Trail south to north but also north to south (a devil for punishment).

He is a Maintenance Section Leader and without these people walks wouldn’t take place.

He is also the Membership Officer which is a time consuming job, not the least because of the increasing membership of the Friends as a result of the very successful End-to-End walks.

Nominated by Chris Porter

Julian Monfries elected as Honorary Member

In many clubs and associations there are some who are just members, some who sit on committees, and others who are the life force of the group. Julian is certainly in the latter group.

Julian Monfries

Julian Monfries

During the more than 10 years that he has been a member, he has been involved with most committees. Walk Leader, Council Member, Trail maintenance etc, the list goes on, and of course President for the last 6 years.

If he had done none of the aforementioned he has earned an honorary membership just for the hours of work put in to establish the End-to-End walks.

Nominated by Terry Gasson

The Birth of the Sea to Summit

Saturday night, about ten years ago and all is well and peaceful at the Edwards household. The phone rang, “it’s George here. I think I have sussed out a walking route from Seacliffe to Mount Lofty without very much road walking. Would you and Marlene like to do a reccy with me tomorrow?” Why not I said, after a brief consult with Marlene; we don’t have anything particular planned for the day (and I suspect we did not give much thought to what we were getting into – Seacliff to Mount Lofty!!)

Sea-to-Summit maps are available for purchase from our shop.

George had been talking about this idea to me for some time… I would have thought “oh yeah – tell me another of your dreams.”

George had been talking about this idea to me for some time. How he could link up several parks and bush tracks to minimize the amount of road walking. It’s probable that, knowing how I think and remember, this was ten years ago, I would have thought “oh yeah – tell me another of your dreams.”

The route that George had planned, although fairly basic, might just work providing we could link up a few areas where parks finished and houses took over. And the mapping at this time was a highly sophisticated patched up series of photocopies from the street directory! Well you have to start somewhere.

George led off his two innocent victims fairly early on the Sunday morning in good weather, as I recall. Up the stairs from the Kingston Caravan Park, across Brighton Road to pick up the linear park heading to O’Halloran Hill Park and so far without getting lost. Along the path beside the expressway, across South Road at Darlington and through to Sturt Gorge and we were going well. Getting into the Gorge was one thing, getting out another and after several back tracks we eventually found an acceptable track. From there, along the railway line to the footbridge, climb over the safety rail and then along the path behind Wittunga Gardens to Hawthorndene and the main gate into Belair National Park. Apart from choosing wrong roads all went well and to this point we had probably been on roads for no more than 2km.

We then proceeded to get lost in Belair trying to find a reasonably direct route away from the park roads to get us to Waverly Lodge at Sheoak Road but we eventually made it after a fair amount of extra walking. From the Lodge, George had in his preliminary planning been to see a resident at No 82 Sheoak Road to see how we could access the fire track running behind the houses. The road reserve ran along the house boundary and was very overgrown with weeds and debris. The owner, being a walker and a member of the Friends, as it happens, suggested we walk up his drive on to the fire track. This is still the route we now take which goes to show that walkers have friends out there. This fire track led us to Waverley Ridge Road and then on to Crafers Interchange.

The official launch of this now famous walk was an occasion to celebrate… with twenty or thirty walkers at the finish … presented everyone with a white t-shirt … each walker signed their name.

I suspect that by this time we were all on autopilot because I can only remember slogging through Cleland Park past the YHA and up to Mount Lofty in something of a haze. Memory fails me at this point and I can only presume that this part of the walk went to plan as I cannot recall getting lost again – only well and truly exhausted arriving very late (thankfully we were in daylight saving season) but still light after a mind blowing 10 or 11 hour days walking uphill. But the good part was that George had phoned ahead for Harry (George’s son), to pick us up at Mount Lofty and he was thoughtful enough to have an esky loaded with cold beer on board.

From this reccy George, in his usual perfectionism adjusted the route and simplified the Sturt Gorge and Belair sections. For George everything had to be correct, feasible and a satisfying trip (this does not necessarily translate to enjoyable). From this initial effort a group of walkers was gathered to re-walk the whole route to test out both route and timing and it was generally agreed that it was a “bloody long 30-odd km hard walk” and a credit to George for having the idea and for making it work.

George had the idea that he would like to call this the” Sea to Summit” walk and because this was a registered business name owned by Tim McCartney Snape it was necessary to seek approval for the use of the name.

George had the idea that he would like to call this the” Sea to Summit” walk and because this was a registered business name owned by Tim McCartney Snape it was necessary to seek approval for the use of the name. Approval was given and so was born the George Driscoll Sea to Summit Walk – maps 49 and 50 in his book of 50 Real Bushwalks Around Adelaide.

The official launch of this now famous walk was an occasion to celebrate. From my recollection there was a group of perhaps twenty or thirty walkers at the finish. At the end of the walk George presented everyone with a white t-shirt. On the front of each shirt was printed in blue the words I summitted Mt Lofty with Tim Mc Cartney Snape on April 5, 1998’. On the back of the t-shirt, which was presented to Tim by George, each walker signed their name. George then opened up an esky he had in the back of his van, and we all had a champers or beer or both. It was a great finish to all the hard work and planning that went in to making this an important part of the Adelaide walking scene.

In recognition of the work done by George, not only for the Sea to Summit walk but for his contribution to walking generally in Adelaide and more recently with his book of walks in Sydney, we are endeavouring to have this walk to be officially named the ”George Driscoll Sea to Summit Walk”. •

Catninga Water Tank

As we are all so aware of at the moment, water is a precious commodity. So it’s with some note that a recent project to install a water tank on the slopes of Mt Brown was undertaken collaboratively by several parties.

When the End-to-End 1 group walked through here in 2005, David Beaton got into conversation with a local farmer who was battling with a shed construction. Out of this discussion a plan formed to construct suitable water catchment facilities at the said shed.

Eventually, the project was coordinated between the interested parties: the local farmer, Brian Daniels, the Friends of the Heysen Trail (funded by the End-to-End 1 group), the Department for Environment and Heritage and the Country Fire Service, with a little help from the Army Reserves. The project involved roofing the shed that was then under construction with material suitable for water catchment and installing some water tanks.

So now water is available for hikers, the tanks located on private property but immediately beside the trail. The water is also available for the farmer and for fire fighting needs on that property and the adjacent national park.

When the End-to-End 2 group passed through in September this year, we presented a plaque to Brian to be erected on the fence adjacent the shed and trail. We had intended to erect the sign that day, as Bill has come prepared with a cordless drill. However the fence was to be replaced soon, so the extra weight Bill carried was in vain!

Coastal Walking from North Haven to Goolwa

Finally we have completed it with our final day’s walk into the car park at Cape Jervis. It was a journey that started years ago, but became a project when, one hot Australian Day, Marie and I were walking along Semaphore beach to the breakwater at North Haven and it occurred to me that, with a little extra effort, we could walk along the coast to the Murray Mouth.

We had already over the years walked the inner Adelaide metropolitan beaches and the Heysen Trail from Cape Jervis to King’s Beach, so the rest would be merely a formality. We could do it as a series of day walks.

Like most people, the thought of walking more that a kilometre brings about images of instant death from exhaustion, so walking approximately 20 kilometres amazes them.

This is a description of the walk, not necessarily in the order we did it but, from North Haven to the Mundoo Barrage. Most of the walk can be done in the summer months and is little more that a paddle in the shallows on hot days, when walking anywhere else would seem a little silly. The metropolitan beaches need little description and walking them mainly involves leaving the car at a point and walking out and back. Sometimes we walked along the beach one way and back the other way through the houses. This was a highlight when we walked past Westlakes, a walk that included the shopping centre and the shores of the lake. The section from Seacliff to Glenelg is a walk I take often, in fact a trip into the city for me is a walk along the beach to Glenelg, a tram ride into the city and then, after a look around Adelaide, a train ride back to Brighton. I consider this one of the great walks to the shops, ranking with two we did in Maui along the beach, the walk from the Mount Cook YHA to the shops and back, Aldgate to Stirling along the railway reserve including Woorabinda Reserve and Kirton Point Caravan Park to Port Lincoln along the coastal path. The walk from North Haven to Seacliff basically covers the inner metropolitan beaches. A friend once caught the bus to Footy Park, watched the game and then walked home in the late afternoon along the beach.

The section from Seacliff to Hallett Cove is along the recently constructed boardwalk and is spectacular as it winds its way along the clifftop. It can be achieved by walking to Hallett Cove and then catching the train back to Seacliff. My favourite way however is to walk there and back along the cliff, for the views are different each way. If it is low tide then this section can be done on the rocks between low and high water mark. This section involves the Hallett Cove Conservation Park and a walk around it is delightful. The section from Hallett cove to Port Stanvac can either be made along the shore or on a track along the clifftop. The shore walk is reasonably easy and involves some rock hopping and is best done at low tide. The rock formations adjacent to the Port Stanvac fence are spectacular and alone make this walk worthwhile.

Port Stanvac is out of bounds, so the next section starts from the boundary fence on its southern side and includes Christies Beach, Port Noarlunga and Southport. These beaches are great surf beaches, especially Southport, so if you are adventurous, go for a surf. You can also wander along the Christies Beach shopping precinct. These are all out and back walks so allow time for that. The memorial on Whitton Bluff is interesting because it is wrong by inference. (Google, Captain Collett Barker and discover the correct story.) At the Southern end of Southport is the mouth of the Onkaparinga River and as such is a terminus, or the walker can venture into the estuary and have a great bird watching experience. How long you spend in this part is up to you but I find it a total experience and have spent many days wandering around. Kayaking up the river to Old Noarlunga and back is a great weekend’s entertainment. In doing so, the walker can get to the southern bank of the river and then continue on along the beach through Seaford, Moana, Maslins Beach, Port Willunga, Aldinga Beach and Sellicks Beach.

…a stop off at Kenetha’s for a cup of afternoon tea. It was a pity her hospitality had waned, for after knocking loudly several times, we phoned only to hear her reply from Perth

This section can all be done on the beach with the occasional rock or reef to maneuver your way around or over. I have only done it at low tide so there might be some problem at high tide, leaving the walker to walk along the clifftop on the various paths. The walk from Moana to Port Willunga I did with Terry Gasson through the scrub, so he is an expert on this section. From the clifftop near Port Willunga you can see what appears to be the hull of “The Star of Greece” in the shallows. This section is a stunningly beautiful surprise with the Sellicks Hill Range as a back drop. This range prompted a friend’s young daughter to call them hilltains, a great description of something between hills and mountains. The Star of Greece Restaurant makes a lovely lunch break.

The section between Sellicks Beach and Myponga Beach is lovely. We did it by walking along the beach at extreme low tide and walking back to Sellicks Beach along the clifftop. The walk along the beach is really a long rock hopping exercise but at low tide the life in the rock pools is surprisingly delightful. Lunch overlooking Myponga Beach would have enticed us to stay all afternoon had we not had to get back to the car. Walking back along the clifftop we basically followed the pipeline and any available tracks. It is a walk that offers spectacular views of the coastline with the best views being from the Buddhist retreat overlooking Sellicks Beach. After this there is a small walk along the Main South Road before taking the first road back to the coast. Marie and I have often walked in this area along the various tracks with a loop walk including Reservoir Road, Sampson Road, the pipeline and various tracks, and Mount Jeffcott. A lot of it is on private property, so we are always mindful of leaving everything as we found it and giving any live stock a wide berth.

The section from Myponga Beach to Carrickalinga was eventful, for no sooner had we started to clamber over the seemingly endless large rocks along the shore when Marie refused to go any further on rocks. Feeling a bit the same and as always being amenable to her wishes, we headed up the first available gully and across country, again on private property but still following the coast. There were lots of steep gullies and associated hills but we soon discovered if we walked inland the steepness soon subsided and the creeks were easily overcome. We are always mindful of livestock in such situations and leave all gates as we find them. During the occasional sortie to the ocean clifftop we soon realized we would not have made it along the shore, for most of it was cliffs running down to the sea. The walk back to the car was along Fork Tree Road and the Myponga Beach Road again offers stunning views. It was while walking along this road that a local in his white truck stopped out of curiosity and asked us where we had been. When told, he was very surprised for, like most people, the thought of walking more that a kilometre brings about images of instant death from exhaustion, so walking approximately 20 kilometres amazes them.

The walk from Carrickalinga to Wirrina Marina is one of the surprises, and we have walked it many times since. We do most of our beach walks on hot summer days but occasionally we do them in winter and again they are delightful in a different way. This particular section we did over two days with a look around Normanville’s main street. The shops and restaurant overlooking the small jetty at Normanville are there for either a meal or an ice-cream or both. I wonder why such a small jetty, maybe it was longer once. The walk from the sand to Wirrina is a little rocky, but Marie didn’t complain much, so I guess it wasn’t too arduous. Once at Wirrina we skirted the boat harbour on the bitumen before heading up the hill and on our way to Second Valley and Rapid Bay.

This section again we did over two days, the first day to Second Valley and back, the second from Second Valley to Rapid Bay and back, with a walk around both towns included. Both of these walks were overland and on private property. Walks overland are best done in the winter, for then the constant worry of snakes and the nuisance of flies disappears or diminishes. Also green hills are much more pleasant than dry and dusty ones. There are some stunning views from the hill tops and, on a cold and windy day, most exhilarating.

Our walk from Rapid Bay to Cape Jervis was one of the best. From Rapid Bay we walked along the clifftop but soon we were confronted with the exceptionally steep and long gully of Yohoe Creek, so in our wisdom we decided to climb Mount Rapid. This was an easy climb and the views from its top were pretty good. After lunch we headed back to Rapid Bay with the whole walk offering great views of the coast. No Where Else Creek offered a small problem but we were able to negotiate this and get back to Rapid Bay quite early and sit on the beach in the sun. While there I was able to help a bloke whose car had become stuck on a small mound with both sets of wheels in the air. Sometimes it helps to be size XXL as I sat on the boot of his car while he got some traction. Our next walk was from Bennett Road to Mount Rapid. This included some native forest, which was delightful, and then we walked to the summit along what appeared to be road reserves. After lunching on the summit we walked back along tracks and roads. Before going to the car we walked along Yoho Road to have a look at the wind turbines on Starfish Hill. We were surprised to see how big they are as they slowly rotated in the stiff breeze that was blowing on this lovely sunny winter’s afternoon.

The walk from Bennett Road to Cape Jervis was mainly on roads which included the Main South Road, Sappers Road, McLeod Road, St Vincent Road and a small expedition overland to a track that led onto Morgan’s Beach. For those who haven’t seen this beach, it is delightful and well worth a swim on a hot day. On arrival at Cape Jervis we had a quick look around, noticed that Robert Alcock’s Heysen Trail sign was already starting to fade and bought a map of KI at the terminal for future reference, as we will be circumnavigating Kangaroo Island in the future.

As you all know, Cape Jervis is the Trail Head for the Heysen Trail and the next section, from Cape Jervis to Victor Harbor, is along the Heysen Trail and needs little description, for most of you should have completed this section or are about to do so. All I will say is that it is challenging and beautiful and if you haven’t completed it, End-to-End 4 will be doing this section in 2009.

Most South Australians will be familiar with the section from Victor Harbor to Goolwa, for most people will have walked sections of it at some time in their lives, so my description will be brief. From Kings beach we left the Heysen Trail and followed a track along the cliff face then, after The Bluff, it was along the beach to Victor. After a look around Victor and some purchases, the long section to Goolwa began. All of this section was walked on hot to very hot days (everywhere else but here) in the shallows with the occasional swim or surf as the need arose. I took one of my Trail Walker groups to Port Elliott and back, including a pastry stop at the Port Elliott Bakery and a stop off at Kenetha Pick’s for a cup of afternoon tea. It was a pity her hospitality had waned, for after knocking loudly several times, Lyn Wood mobile phoned her only to hear her reply from Perth. We couldn’t even get a drink from her tap, for the water had been turned off. This would have to be hospitality at its worst with a lot of room for improvement. While walking past the railway station, Mike Spencer suggested we catch the cockle train back to Victor, but the consensus was we were out for a walk, so walk we did. All walks the other way are different because of the different scenery and the board walk on the Hindmarsh River estuary was a sweet little diversion. On another occasion we walked up the stairs near the Chiton Rocks Lifesaving Club and walked back to the Hindmarsh River on the road reserve and road, overlooking the ocean. This particular walk offers great vistas and is exceptional on a big surf day. On this occasion we were greeted by a friendly Pardalote as we entered the Hindmarsh river boardwalk. The little remembrance garden in Port Elliott overlooking Horseshoe Bay was a moving experience, for I can’t help wondering why boys from the sunny, isolated Port Elliott of 1914 should be obscenely dying in the mud of France at some British staff officer’s whim.

The walk from Port Elliott to Goolwa was done in three stages. The first one was from Port Elliott to Middleton along the beach. This is best done at low tide because the beach can be a little narrow at times. The next section was along the beach to a halfway point heading toward Goolwa Beach and the next was back to that point from Goolwa Beach. Both times we were at Middleton there was a surfing competition, which to an ageing surfer was a delight. One thing that surprised me was the large number of baby-boomer surfers in the comp. Most of these surfers had long boards and were a little pale and over fed, and either grey and/or bald. This is a different sight to the 1960’s when they were tanned, skinny, blond and longhaired or as Little Patty would have it -“Blond headed, stompie wompie real gone surfer boys.”

The walk from Goolwa Beach to the Murray Mouth and back was a long day, with the distance I estimate to be about 27 kms. Again we walked in the shallows and on this particular day it was foggy to start, with the fog disappearing when a stiff sea breeze sprang up. The mouth is always spectacular and now, with its dredges and out flow pipes from those dredges, it offers a different landscape. At one stage there were two rays feeding in such shallow water that their fins were rippling out of the water as they moved along.

Our walk from the Goolwa Barrage along the river bank to the Mouth and back was one of those funny days you have sometimes. We religiously stayed close to shore and avoided any of the black mud until, near the mouth, down we went up to our knees. Luckily we had taken our sandals off by then but we looked as though we had long black socks on. When we reached the mouth we washed all of this off, but on the way back we went out of our way to avoid the mud. This was to no avail for down we went again, not quite as deeply as before, but enough to still have long black socks on when we got back to the barrage.

Our next walk was from the barrage through Goolwa, across the “Secret Women’s Business” bridge and onto Hindmarsh Island. After a quick walk down O’Connell Ave, it was back along Randell Road and then down Captain Sturt Parade. This is a lovely walk with its views over the Lower Murray and Lake Alexandra. The beach houses offer a sight into another way of life and the winery we stopped off at offered some interesting cellar door sales, after this we headed down Monument Road. We had a look at Sturt’s Monument and then it was back to Goolwa along Randell Road. This is a bit tedious but a quick look around the Chapman Marina and those obligatory open inspections we had to attend, made it more interesting. In Goolwa we did the usual shops and art gallery tours. The one with the artists in residence painting those birds and animals is a must see at any time. We also stopped off at the Goolwa Bakery for one of those blueberry turnovers, which is a meal in itself and always takes an age to finish. “Mmmm, eat your heart out Homer, they don’t have those in Springfield.”

Our next walk was the final one in this Odyssey and involved walking past Sturt’s Monument down McLeay Road through a gate into a road reserve. We followed this track for about a kilometre before following it in a 90 degree turn to the left. We followed this track through another gate onto a gravel road to its conclusion at the Mundoo Barrage, which is where this walk ended. From all of the signage on the fences and the warning from the man at the Goolwa information centre it seemed prudent to stop here and take up the walk on the other side of Tauwitcherie Barrage. This we did and are now in the process of walking to Mount Gambier along the coast, as the geography permits.

Link walks are always interesting because we walk in places not usually walked and these are sometimes the best. Examples of this were the walk from the Barrage to the Murray Mouth, the walks to Mount Rapid, the walk along the shore and cliffs between Selleck’s Beach and Carrickalinga, the walk across Hindmarsh Island and the Onkaparinga Estuary.

She’s Missing! A Story of Survival

At the beginning of 1996, I decided to take time off from work as a senior manager in the Netherlands’ health system; a sort of sabbatical to reflect on my job and private life. I wanted to recover physically and emotionally from some stressful years that lay behind me.

Stella van der Krogt

Stella van der Krogt

My initial wish was to go to Ireland because I had always been interested in their culture and the rough landscape but the climate was too cool! Instead, I chose Australia, because the climate was better and it is an English speaking country. This would be my first holiday travelling on my own and I felt vulnerable, I would only feel safe if people were able to understand me if something unforseen happened! (Moreover, something did happen…).

On 13 September 1996 I arrived in Perth with only a backpack, a tent and camping gear. From the moment I touched Ozzie-soil I felt good. I encountered kind, helpful people and this would be the case during my whole trip.

I bought a 10000-kilometre pass to travel on the Greyhound bus and after a couple of days in Perth I took off to Kalbarri National Park with Greyhound. However, the first 3 months, after Kalbarri, I didn’t have to use any kilometres of my pass because there were people I met on the camping ground who offered a lift to travel with them up north. There was always an Ozzie who would ask “where are you going” and as I didn’t care where I was going, (everything was beautiful for me) I accepted their kind offers. From Kalbarri I travelled to Monkey Mia (Exmouth), Broome, Katherine, Kununurra, Uluru, The Olga’s, Flinders Ranges, Adelaide, Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane and Longreach…….

St Mary Peak, Wilpena Pound

St Mary Peak, Wilpena Pound

However, the visit to the Flinders Ranges north of Adelaide would change my life forever. Finding my way down from Uluru I travelled with a Danish couple to Adelaide.

How stupid to end up on an edge of a vertical rock that dropped hundreds of feet into a creek…

In all the places I had visited in Australia my biggest passion was to go bushwalking in the national parks. Many travellers had told me that I should visit the Flinders, one of the most ancient parks in the world. Whilst I was based in Adelaide for a couple of weeks I decided to go to Wilpena Pound and arrived on 17 November 1996 where I pitched my tent on the camping ground and enquired at the rangers’ office about the walks. The camping ground was then an unspoilt area and the rangers’ office was just a shed. These days Wilpena Pound has turned into a touristy resort.

I decided to do the St Mary Peak walk the day after arrival and that night the weather turned; we had had days of 39C and that night there was an enormous thunder and lightening storm and heavy rainfall. The edges of my tent got wet and the box of matches was soaked. The morning after was glorious and a temperature of 39C was predicted but I enquired at the rangers’ office about the weather report for that day. I had a long talk to Florence, the rangers’ wife, and she advised that a hailstorm was predicted. She suggested I go to the saddle of the mountain and reassess the situation. If the weather was still clear, I could go on to St. St Mary Peak. Florence also assessed my outfit and gear and said I would be fine. I assured Florence that I would come back to her to check in (I had logged out in the walkers check in book) and share my adventure with her.

View over Wilpena Pound and Aroona Valley

View over Wilpena Pound and Aroona Valley

I had already noticed that the walks were not very well signposted in Wilpena Pound and I found this to be true of the St Mary Peak walk. There were faded blue triangles painted on rocks and the path was studded with small and big boulders all the way up. The entire walk was spectacular; I encountered kangaroos, emus, and hardly any people. The views were breathtaking and I felt very happy and ‘grounded’.

When I arrived at the saddle the weather was still gorgeous and after a lunch break I decided to go to the peak. This is only a walk of 80 metres but the climb is so steep that it takes time and concentration to reach the top.

St Mary Peak escarpment

St Mary Peak escarpment

As I reached the top all “hell broke loose” and hailstones as big as ping-pong balls were raining down. The sky turned grey, I became frightened and immediately started my descent. The markings were poor and soon I lost my way, even before I re-reached the saddle. For a short while I tried to find my way back to the ‘path’ but to no avail and still in panic mode I decided to descend on my compass. Soon the weather cleared and it was hot and sunny again; following my compass I was now descending on the east side of the mountain instead of the marked path on the west.

I became tired and careless and as I clambered over two big boulders I slid over the side of them, “heading east”. When I slid over the second (overhanging) boulder, I dropped onto a small ledge of 1 metre wide and 4 metres long staring into a ravine below (with a depth of approx 100 metres)! I realized that I was in deep trouble and that I had to get back over the boulders onto the mountain. How stupid to end up on an edge of a vertical rock that dropped hundreds of feet into a creek…

When I tried to climb back, I slipped because there were no hand grips on the big smooth boulder. I fell and hit my head on the edge of the ledge and for a short while I was unconscious. When I woke up I had a hole in my head and was bleeding. With toilet paper I staunched the blood and pulled the cap of my rain jacket tight over my head. After a while the bleeding stopped. I knew that I could not climb back, next time I would not be so lucky and could fall into the ravine. It was also growing dark and the best option was to wait for a search party to find me, I was counting on Florence (from the rangers’ office)!!

The night was freezing cold, it was pitch-black and I was scared that if I moved I would fall off the ledge so I talked aloud to myself to control the panic and to prevent myself making a wrong move.

I prepared a ‘bed’ of a few branches and leaves, put on my rain jacket and lay down on the small ledge; the blowflies annoyed me and were attracted to the blood and sweat. The night was freezing cold, it was pitch-black and I was scared that if I moved I would fall off the ledge so I talked aloud to myself to control the panic and to prevent myself making a wrong move. I didn’t have any water left, my teeth were chattering and I decided then and there that if I survived this ordeal that I would resign from my work in the Netherlands and come back to Australia to find work. I was angry with myself that I had made a number of mistakes which could have cost me my life.

With memories of my childhood and close friends, the night passed and the most spectacular sunrise I have ever seen started the day with hope that a search would begin and find me.

In the meantime I had prepared myself and streamers of white toilet paper were blowing in the wind and wrapped around my head. I waved the bright blue jacket in the air and the ‘choppers’ were so close that I was convinced that somebody would spot me.

I was not disappointed because at the first break of light I heard the sound of helicopters and small planes and a bit later I saw them: 2 helicopters and 2 small planes! In the meantime I had prepared myself and streamers of white toilet paper were blowing in the wind and wrapped around my head. I waved the bright blue jacket in the air and the ‘choppers’ were so close that I was convinced that somebody would spot me. But, hours later I realized that they didn’t see me. I was hidden under the overhanging rock and was devastated. I had tried with a magnifying glass to give a light signal and to start a smoky fire but to no avail. I had left the matches in the tent because they got wet during the rainfall.

The dehydration made me weak and hopeless and I realized that I would die on this ledge because they would never find me. I had to get back on the mountain and at around 4 pm I decided to try to climb back. If I slipped again I decided to let myself drop into the ravine. I felt too weak and hopeless and could not control the panic any longer; I didn’t know if I could survive another night. The dehydration would have made me too weak to be able to climb the mountain; I knew this was my one and only chance!

I said a little prayer and asked to be protected from a horrible death. I clung to the first boulder and then something extraordinary happened: somebody or something was pushing my butt up and before I knew it I was standing on top of the 2nd boulder, on the mountain! I called this experience my “Aboriginal spirit” who guided me through this ordeal and who made the impossible possible. My bra and T-shirt were torn but I screamed with joy knowing I could walk and would be alright.

With my binoculars I saw that there was a creek in the valley and my first priority was to get water.

The descent was the most beautiful experience of my life because I saw wonderful images (in retrospect I know that I was hallucinating, due to the dehydration).

The descent was the most beautiful experience of my life because I saw wonderful images (in retrospect I know that I was hallucinating, due to the dehydration). First I saw a red kangaroo sleeping and whilst I was talking to the animal and getting closer I realized it was a rock. Then I saw a man, a shepherd, tending his sheep and I talked to him about my joy of survival, but when I touched the image I realize it was a rock. And so it went on until I reached the creek where the real kangaroos and wild goats were drinking. I let myself fall into the creek and drink the most delicious water feeling that I had entered paradise.

Under a gum tree I made a bed of grass and branches, preparing myself for the night while it was still dusk. I heard the engines of a helicopter but I decided to let it go, the place where I was too beautiful to leave. Soon after I heard a second helicopter and this time my mind reasoned and won: I walked to an open spot in the thicket and waved with my blue jacket to draw attention. I knew this helicopter spotted me because it circled low above me and I realized the helicopter was not able to land. They lowered a windlass and somebody was tied to it. There was such a strong wind that it took a long time before the person (Steve) was lowered. When Steve (a doctor at the Royal Adelaide Hospital) hung in front of me he asked “are you Stella” and I said yes (afterwards this question seemed hysterical and friends and I had lots of laughs about it; suppose I would have said no, I am Sally…) and Steve put his arms around me and asked me to put my arms and legs around him so we could both be winched up into the helicopter. We swayed in the strong wind and it was a dangerous manoeuvre to get us in but after a few attempts the pilot had us both in the helicopter. After 52 hours I was on my way to safety.

When Steve hung in front of me he asked “are you Stella?” and I said yes. Afterwards this question seemed hysterical; suppose I would have said “no, I am Sally?”

Steve took me in his arms and the other three men said how happy they were that I had been found, they had almost given up hope of finding me. That was the moment when I released all my emotions and sobbed in Steve’s arms. We flew to Wilpena Pound that had become an emergency centre and I was welcomed by a crying Florence (who became my Florence Nightingale). On a bed in the motel I was examined by Steve and he put a brace around my neck and had me transported by ambulance to Port Augusta. This transport and my 3-day stay in Port Augusta hospital is a story on its own……When I arrived Paul Makin from Chanel 10 was there and I was interviewed. He told me that my next of kin had been notified of my ‘missing person’ status and that the outcome had looked serious. I learned that the helicopters and planes were making their last search as they had given up hope of finding me alive.

When I was released from hospital I went back to Wilpena Pound to thank everybody for their help. My travel insurance was happy to pay the $30,000 search costs but searches in Australia are paid by the government and there were no costs charged to me!

In Wilpena I was welcomed by Florence and Dean and I stayed a week with them. I thanked the rangers by working hard with a volunteer group clearing paths and making the tracks better. The rangers offered me a flight over the pound to show me that without smoke signals it is impossible to find somebody. We tried to find the spot where I was stuck on the ledge but it was never sighted.

When I did go back to the Netherlands in February 1997 I resigned from my job to take effect in December 1997 and prepared myself to come back to Australia. I submitted CV’s and was confident that I would find a job and on 28 December 1997 I was back in Australia and started work for the Dutch government on 1 June 1998.

Until this day I am still friends with Florence and Dean and the other rangers.

Since 18 November 1996 my soul and part of me will always be in the Flinders Ranges. For the past 11 years I have lived, worked and enjoyed this beautiful country becoming a proud Australian citizen in 2007!

Editor’s note: the trail is now well marked with signs on steel posts every 200 metres.

Walking in the Flinders: End-to-End 2

The catch-up chatting began in the bus, which picked up many walkers from outside the Heysen office, in Pitt Street, on the way to the first stop in Port Augusta. Walking gear and food filled the storage area under the bus but left just enough space for a large addition, no names mentioned, in Snowtown.

Importantly, amongst other things, this carried today’s supply of goodies so capably organised by the fruitcake committee.

This was to be our penultimate week of walking the Heysen Trail, but no one can plan the weather. How great that there has finally been some rain in the north of our state; some seed has been planted and there is already a tinge of green to show for it. For walkers, though, the rain was not so well timed. Our bus got bogged on the Eyre Depot road to the west of the range. Thanks to careful planning by Jerry and Michelle, we were towed out by Barry and Trevor, in the pre arranged support vehicle. Plan B: We returned through Pt Augusta and Quorn to access the trail from the eastern side at Argadells HS. No one could say we didn’t try. The day was overcast and misty. Wet weather gear was put into action. It was too damp to sit for morning tea. Ominously, even the 4WD’ers were abandoning their holiday weekend plans. Then the mist turned to rain, the wind blew across the ridge top, there was no shelter for a lunch stop, and still another 13km to go in these conditions. Sadly, our kilt-clad president decided it was too wet to play his bagpipes on Mt Arden. Plan C: We retraced our steps. We had walked about 19km. It was dark by the time the bus was negotiating the wet dirt roads back to the main road. Jerry awarded this group the prize for the greatest amount of effort for the least amount of trail walked in a day: 450m (900 if you count both directions.) A hot shower and hot food were welcome that night.

Day 2 was a rest day. It turned out to be a sunny day but the access roads were impassable. Tip: If you haven’t already visited the Wadlata Outback Centre in Port Augusta, do so soon. It is an excellent exhibition of the Outback, made interesting by its variety of interactive displays, and has a good café too.

The colour of the rocks; ochre, orange and red also demanded photography; it would be good to return in different lights.

We moved on to base at Quorn for two nights, with the challenge of Mt Arden as yet unmet. The next walks were characterised by rock hopping along creek beds. This was made all the more interesting by the steep gorges and recent rain, leaving water holes, and in some places, running creeks, to be crossed. There was plenty of mud too, adding weight to our boots, a novelty for those who have mainly been walking the Heysen in drought conditions. The rock pools provided picturesque lunch stops, and Jeremy, with his reflection, became the focus of a photo shoot or was it just his feet? The colour of the rocks; ochre, orange and red also demanded photography; it would be good to return in different lights. This section is amply supplied with campsites, such as Bucharinga North, Calabrinda Creek and Mount Elm. We can only imagine how this area was different in the past, with the early pioneers trying to make a living. We saw the ruins of a community large enough to support the Mt Elm School, and graves at Old Wonoka recorded the lives of those who worked the land rather than gained their recreation from it.

For the last three nights we were based at Hawker. A break from the predominantly flat territory was the hike up Jarvis Hill, with its magnificent viewpoint across the Willochra Plain, then through forest and along the Yourambulla Range. This is not a track for the faint hearted. It requires considerable concentration on footwork with steep drops at the edge of the ridge. We were rewarded with fabulous views, this time towards the Elder Range and at last, Wilpena Pound appears within reachable distance.In the near distance we had a bird’s eye view of an eagle’s nest. It took up most of the tree.

One in 50 year floods, in 2007, had taken out dense vegetation, leaving us the choice of following the creek beds or walking on its banks. Huge horizontal tree trunks caught in between the trees still standing, were testament to the power of this mighty flood

We almost got into the swing of creek walking, but the same creek seems to be called many different names on the map; Wonoka, Memmerna and Slaty Creek, to the inexperienced, all seem to be the same one. It was interesting to note how this area had changed since the End to End 1 group had walked through a few years ago. One in 50 year floods, in 2007, had taken out dense vegetation, leaving us the choice of following the creek beds or walking on its banks. Huge horizontal tree trunks caught in between the trees still standing, were testament to the power of this mighty flood. Mayo Hut has a commanding view above the flood line; it offered a scenic lunch stop. We left the trail at the Red Range campsite with a steep climb through the native pines on the Arkaba station, to the familiar site of the bus, and its driver, Gavin. Importantly, amongst other things, this carried today’s supply of goodies so capably organised by the fruitcake committee.