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She’s Missing! A Story of Survival

At the beginning of 1996, I decided to take time off from work as a senior manager in the Netherlands’ health system; a sort of sabbatical to reflect on my job and private life. I wanted to recover physically and emotionally from some stressful years that lay behind me.

Stella van der Krogt

Stella van der Krogt

My initial wish was to go to Ireland because I had always been interested in their culture and the rough landscape but the climate was too cool! Instead, I chose Australia, because the climate was better and it is an English speaking country. This would be my first holiday travelling on my own and I felt vulnerable, I would only feel safe if people were able to understand me if something unforseen happened! (Moreover, something did happen…).

On 13 September 1996 I arrived in Perth with only a backpack, a tent and camping gear. From the moment I touched Ozzie-soil I felt good. I encountered kind, helpful people and this would be the case during my whole trip.

I bought a 10000-kilometre pass to travel on the Greyhound bus and after a couple of days in Perth I took off to Kalbarri National Park with Greyhound. However, the first 3 months, after Kalbarri, I didn’t have to use any kilometres of my pass because there were people I met on the camping ground who offered a lift to travel with them up north. There was always an Ozzie who would ask “where are you going” and as I didn’t care where I was going, (everything was beautiful for me) I accepted their kind offers. From Kalbarri I travelled to Monkey Mia (Exmouth), Broome, Katherine, Kununurra, Uluru, The Olga’s, Flinders Ranges, Adelaide, Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane and Longreach…….

St Mary Peak, Wilpena Pound

St Mary Peak, Wilpena Pound

However, the visit to the Flinders Ranges north of Adelaide would change my life forever. Finding my way down from Uluru I travelled with a Danish couple to Adelaide.

How stupid to end up on an edge of a vertical rock that dropped hundreds of feet into a creek…

In all the places I had visited in Australia my biggest passion was to go bushwalking in the national parks. Many travellers had told me that I should visit the Flinders, one of the most ancient parks in the world. Whilst I was based in Adelaide for a couple of weeks I decided to go to Wilpena Pound and arrived on 17 November 1996 where I pitched my tent on the camping ground and enquired at the rangers’ office about the walks. The camping ground was then an unspoilt area and the rangers’ office was just a shed. These days Wilpena Pound has turned into a touristy resort.

I decided to do the St Mary Peak walk the day after arrival and that night the weather turned; we had had days of 39C and that night there was an enormous thunder and lightening storm and heavy rainfall. The edges of my tent got wet and the box of matches was soaked. The morning after was glorious and a temperature of 39C was predicted but I enquired at the rangers’ office about the weather report for that day. I had a long talk to Florence, the rangers’ wife, and she advised that a hailstorm was predicted. She suggested I go to the saddle of the mountain and reassess the situation. If the weather was still clear, I could go on to St. St Mary Peak. Florence also assessed my outfit and gear and said I would be fine. I assured Florence that I would come back to her to check in (I had logged out in the walkers check in book) and share my adventure with her.

View over Wilpena Pound and Aroona Valley

View over Wilpena Pound and Aroona Valley

I had already noticed that the walks were not very well signposted in Wilpena Pound and I found this to be true of the St Mary Peak walk. There were faded blue triangles painted on rocks and the path was studded with small and big boulders all the way up. The entire walk was spectacular; I encountered kangaroos, emus, and hardly any people. The views were breathtaking and I felt very happy and ‘grounded’.

When I arrived at the saddle the weather was still gorgeous and after a lunch break I decided to go to the peak. This is only a walk of 80 metres but the climb is so steep that it takes time and concentration to reach the top.

St Mary Peak escarpment

St Mary Peak escarpment

As I reached the top all “hell broke loose” and hailstones as big as ping-pong balls were raining down. The sky turned grey, I became frightened and immediately started my descent. The markings were poor and soon I lost my way, even before I re-reached the saddle. For a short while I tried to find my way back to the ‘path’ but to no avail and still in panic mode I decided to descend on my compass. Soon the weather cleared and it was hot and sunny again; following my compass I was now descending on the east side of the mountain instead of the marked path on the west.

I became tired and careless and as I clambered over two big boulders I slid over the side of them, “heading east”. When I slid over the second (overhanging) boulder, I dropped onto a small ledge of 1 metre wide and 4 metres long staring into a ravine below (with a depth of approx 100 metres)! I realized that I was in deep trouble and that I had to get back over the boulders onto the mountain. How stupid to end up on an edge of a vertical rock that dropped hundreds of feet into a creek…

When I tried to climb back, I slipped because there were no hand grips on the big smooth boulder. I fell and hit my head on the edge of the ledge and for a short while I was unconscious. When I woke up I had a hole in my head and was bleeding. With toilet paper I staunched the blood and pulled the cap of my rain jacket tight over my head. After a while the bleeding stopped. I knew that I could not climb back, next time I would not be so lucky and could fall into the ravine. It was also growing dark and the best option was to wait for a search party to find me, I was counting on Florence (from the rangers’ office)!!

The night was freezing cold, it was pitch-black and I was scared that if I moved I would fall off the ledge so I talked aloud to myself to control the panic and to prevent myself making a wrong move.

I prepared a ‘bed’ of a few branches and leaves, put on my rain jacket and lay down on the small ledge; the blowflies annoyed me and were attracted to the blood and sweat. The night was freezing cold, it was pitch-black and I was scared that if I moved I would fall off the ledge so I talked aloud to myself to control the panic and to prevent myself making a wrong move. I didn’t have any water left, my teeth were chattering and I decided then and there that if I survived this ordeal that I would resign from my work in the Netherlands and come back to Australia to find work. I was angry with myself that I had made a number of mistakes which could have cost me my life.

With memories of my childhood and close friends, the night passed and the most spectacular sunrise I have ever seen started the day with hope that a search would begin and find me.

In the meantime I had prepared myself and streamers of white toilet paper were blowing in the wind and wrapped around my head. I waved the bright blue jacket in the air and the ‘choppers’ were so close that I was convinced that somebody would spot me.

I was not disappointed because at the first break of light I heard the sound of helicopters and small planes and a bit later I saw them: 2 helicopters and 2 small planes! In the meantime I had prepared myself and streamers of white toilet paper were blowing in the wind and wrapped around my head. I waved the bright blue jacket in the air and the ‘choppers’ were so close that I was convinced that somebody would spot me. But, hours later I realized that they didn’t see me. I was hidden under the overhanging rock and was devastated. I had tried with a magnifying glass to give a light signal and to start a smoky fire but to no avail. I had left the matches in the tent because they got wet during the rainfall.

The dehydration made me weak and hopeless and I realized that I would die on this ledge because they would never find me. I had to get back on the mountain and at around 4 pm I decided to try to climb back. If I slipped again I decided to let myself drop into the ravine. I felt too weak and hopeless and could not control the panic any longer; I didn’t know if I could survive another night. The dehydration would have made me too weak to be able to climb the mountain; I knew this was my one and only chance!

I said a little prayer and asked to be protected from a horrible death. I clung to the first boulder and then something extraordinary happened: somebody or something was pushing my butt up and before I knew it I was standing on top of the 2nd boulder, on the mountain! I called this experience my “Aboriginal spirit” who guided me through this ordeal and who made the impossible possible. My bra and T-shirt were torn but I screamed with joy knowing I could walk and would be alright.

With my binoculars I saw that there was a creek in the valley and my first priority was to get water.

The descent was the most beautiful experience of my life because I saw wonderful images (in retrospect I know that I was hallucinating, due to the dehydration).

The descent was the most beautiful experience of my life because I saw wonderful images (in retrospect I know that I was hallucinating, due to the dehydration). First I saw a red kangaroo sleeping and whilst I was talking to the animal and getting closer I realized it was a rock. Then I saw a man, a shepherd, tending his sheep and I talked to him about my joy of survival, but when I touched the image I realize it was a rock. And so it went on until I reached the creek where the real kangaroos and wild goats were drinking. I let myself fall into the creek and drink the most delicious water feeling that I had entered paradise.

Under a gum tree I made a bed of grass and branches, preparing myself for the night while it was still dusk. I heard the engines of a helicopter but I decided to let it go, the place where I was too beautiful to leave. Soon after I heard a second helicopter and this time my mind reasoned and won: I walked to an open spot in the thicket and waved with my blue jacket to draw attention. I knew this helicopter spotted me because it circled low above me and I realized the helicopter was not able to land. They lowered a windlass and somebody was tied to it. There was such a strong wind that it took a long time before the person (Steve) was lowered. When Steve (a doctor at the Royal Adelaide Hospital) hung in front of me he asked “are you Stella” and I said yes (afterwards this question seemed hysterical and friends and I had lots of laughs about it; suppose I would have said no, I am Sally…) and Steve put his arms around me and asked me to put my arms and legs around him so we could both be winched up into the helicopter. We swayed in the strong wind and it was a dangerous manoeuvre to get us in but after a few attempts the pilot had us both in the helicopter. After 52 hours I was on my way to safety.

When Steve hung in front of me he asked “are you Stella?” and I said yes. Afterwards this question seemed hysterical; suppose I would have said “no, I am Sally?”

Steve took me in his arms and the other three men said how happy they were that I had been found, they had almost given up hope of finding me. That was the moment when I released all my emotions and sobbed in Steve’s arms. We flew to Wilpena Pound that had become an emergency centre and I was welcomed by a crying Florence (who became my Florence Nightingale). On a bed in the motel I was examined by Steve and he put a brace around my neck and had me transported by ambulance to Port Augusta. This transport and my 3-day stay in Port Augusta hospital is a story on its own……When I arrived Paul Makin from Chanel 10 was there and I was interviewed. He told me that my next of kin had been notified of my ‘missing person’ status and that the outcome had looked serious. I learned that the helicopters and planes were making their last search as they had given up hope of finding me alive.

When I was released from hospital I went back to Wilpena Pound to thank everybody for their help. My travel insurance was happy to pay the $30,000 search costs but searches in Australia are paid by the government and there were no costs charged to me!

In Wilpena I was welcomed by Florence and Dean and I stayed a week with them. I thanked the rangers by working hard with a volunteer group clearing paths and making the tracks better. The rangers offered me a flight over the pound to show me that without smoke signals it is impossible to find somebody. We tried to find the spot where I was stuck on the ledge but it was never sighted.

When I did go back to the Netherlands in February 1997 I resigned from my job to take effect in December 1997 and prepared myself to come back to Australia. I submitted CV’s and was confident that I would find a job and on 28 December 1997 I was back in Australia and started work for the Dutch government on 1 June 1998.

Until this day I am still friends with Florence and Dean and the other rangers.

Since 18 November 1996 my soul and part of me will always be in the Flinders Ranges. For the past 11 years I have lived, worked and enjoyed this beautiful country becoming a proud Australian citizen in 2007!

Editor’s note: the trail is now well marked with signs on steel posts every 200 metres.

Walking in the Flinders: End-to-End 2

The catch-up chatting began in the bus, which picked up many walkers from outside the Heysen office, in Pitt Street, on the way to the first stop in Port Augusta. Walking gear and food filled the storage area under the bus but left just enough space for a large addition, no names mentioned, in Snowtown.

Importantly, amongst other things, this carried today’s supply of goodies so capably organised by the fruitcake committee.

This was to be our penultimate week of walking the Heysen Trail, but no one can plan the weather. How great that there has finally been some rain in the north of our state; some seed has been planted and there is already a tinge of green to show for it. For walkers, though, the rain was not so well timed. Our bus got bogged on the Eyre Depot road to the west of the range. Thanks to careful planning by Jerry and Michelle, we were towed out by Barry and Trevor, in the pre arranged support vehicle. Plan B: We returned through Pt Augusta and Quorn to access the trail from the eastern side at Argadells HS. No one could say we didn’t try. The day was overcast and misty. Wet weather gear was put into action. It was too damp to sit for morning tea. Ominously, even the 4WD’ers were abandoning their holiday weekend plans. Then the mist turned to rain, the wind blew across the ridge top, there was no shelter for a lunch stop, and still another 13km to go in these conditions. Sadly, our kilt-clad president decided it was too wet to play his bagpipes on Mt Arden. Plan C: We retraced our steps. We had walked about 19km. It was dark by the time the bus was negotiating the wet dirt roads back to the main road. Jerry awarded this group the prize for the greatest amount of effort for the least amount of trail walked in a day: 450m (900 if you count both directions.) A hot shower and hot food were welcome that night.

Day 2 was a rest day. It turned out to be a sunny day but the access roads were impassable. Tip: If you haven’t already visited the Wadlata Outback Centre in Port Augusta, do so soon. It is an excellent exhibition of the Outback, made interesting by its variety of interactive displays, and has a good café too.

The colour of the rocks; ochre, orange and red also demanded photography; it would be good to return in different lights.

We moved on to base at Quorn for two nights, with the challenge of Mt Arden as yet unmet. The next walks were characterised by rock hopping along creek beds. This was made all the more interesting by the steep gorges and recent rain, leaving water holes, and in some places, running creeks, to be crossed. There was plenty of mud too, adding weight to our boots, a novelty for those who have mainly been walking the Heysen in drought conditions. The rock pools provided picturesque lunch stops, and Jeremy, with his reflection, became the focus of a photo shoot or was it just his feet? The colour of the rocks; ochre, orange and red also demanded photography; it would be good to return in different lights. This section is amply supplied with campsites, such as Bucharinga North, Calabrinda Creek and Mount Elm. We can only imagine how this area was different in the past, with the early pioneers trying to make a living. We saw the ruins of a community large enough to support the Mt Elm School, and graves at Old Wonoka recorded the lives of those who worked the land rather than gained their recreation from it.

For the last three nights we were based at Hawker. A break from the predominantly flat territory was the hike up Jarvis Hill, with its magnificent viewpoint across the Willochra Plain, then through forest and along the Yourambulla Range. This is not a track for the faint hearted. It requires considerable concentration on footwork with steep drops at the edge of the ridge. We were rewarded with fabulous views, this time towards the Elder Range and at last, Wilpena Pound appears within reachable distance.In the near distance we had a bird’s eye view of an eagle’s nest. It took up most of the tree.

One in 50 year floods, in 2007, had taken out dense vegetation, leaving us the choice of following the creek beds or walking on its banks. Huge horizontal tree trunks caught in between the trees still standing, were testament to the power of this mighty flood

We almost got into the swing of creek walking, but the same creek seems to be called many different names on the map; Wonoka, Memmerna and Slaty Creek, to the inexperienced, all seem to be the same one. It was interesting to note how this area had changed since the End to End 1 group had walked through a few years ago. One in 50 year floods, in 2007, had taken out dense vegetation, leaving us the choice of following the creek beds or walking on its banks. Huge horizontal tree trunks caught in between the trees still standing, were testament to the power of this mighty flood. Mayo Hut has a commanding view above the flood line; it offered a scenic lunch stop. We left the trail at the Red Range campsite with a steep climb through the native pines on the Arkaba station, to the familiar site of the bus, and its driver, Gavin. Importantly, amongst other things, this carried today’s supply of goodies so capably organised by the fruitcake committee.

Feeling Great – the Story of End-to-End 2

The ‘Heysen Trail’ has become our obsession and biggest personal challenge to complete in August 2008. When we first started walking on some End-to-End 1 days and catch ups we thought, okay just for the fun of it, we will do the odd day. We were told that we should just do the easy bits but this made us determined to tackle the whole 1200km!

Helen Cradock, Rhonda Dempster, Bev McLeod and Ralene Shaw and on top of Mt Bryan

Helen Cradock, Rhonda Dempster, Bev McLeod and Ralene Shaw and on top of Mt Bryan

So when Kevin Boyce decided to start at Cape Jervis to do his catch ups for End-to-End 1 we joined in and thus the End-to-End 2 was born.

It has been a journey of great personal challenge taking us out of our comfort zones. We have spent hours at the gym and training walks to enable us to undertake the trek. We have made many close friendships laughing and crying together but always supported and encouraged. We have seen places in South Australia we had no idea existed and stayed in quaint country pubs where doors fell off the hinges, taps didn’t run and we laughed until we cried. The hospitality shown to us has been exceptional and the meals memorable.

Just one more hill to go… just another gully…

The track was not always spectacular and sometimes Jerry’s link days were tedious along bitumen and country roads. However, with everyone’s company it was never boring. Someone always had a story or walking adventures to tell. Signs come and go… “follow the fence”, “follow the creek”, ”follow the ridge”, “follow the track”, “follow the road” and the arrows always showing the way. Up and over numerous stiles, gates, fences and even through paddocks with resident bulls eyeing us off.

Old Heysen Trail marker

Old Heysen Trail marker

Memories of dolphins hunting for fish at Blow Hole Beach, rainbows over Kings Head, stampeded by cows, the autumn tones of the grape vines, frosty mornings and bald hills in Burra, the ghost at Hallett, the bagpipes and rock ‘n roll in Gladstone Goal, Simon singing on the trail, wedding party on Pichi Richi train, sunrise over Dutchman’s Stern, sunset at Partacoona, overnight camp on the trail at Mt Arden, gale force winds along exposed ridges, dry stone walls, hot tailing past beehives, wedge tail eagle gliding just above our head through a creek bed, colors of the Flinders Ranges and all the undulations and gullies we traversed. Just one more hill to go… just another gully…

The tradition of the silver tray has kept us sustained during the walk. It makes an appearance at morning tea with such delights as Haighs chocolate frogs, Crows and Port colored lollies, cakes, slices… the list goes on and on. On the two weeks away in 2008 the tray appeared at the end of the day under the direction of the Nutty Fruit Cake Committee who made sure no weight was lost on the walk that day. Trevor also kept us energized each walk with a never ending supply of Tim Tams.

Thanks to everybody for their ongoing support and encouragement without which we would not have completed the trail. Thank you also to the many friendships we have made throughout our journey. Special thanks to Jerry and Michelle Foster who have kept us going with tail end stories and encouragement well beyond the call of duty.

Tackling the Heysen Trail has given us the confidence to tackle walking adventures interstate and overseas. We hope the end of the trail in August will be the start of many more adventures to follow.

We did it!!!

Nine Artists, Eight Days in the Landscape on the Heysen Trail

In May 2008 artists Euan Macleod, Leo Robba, Chris O’Doherty aka Reg Mombassa, Lucy Culliton, Elisabeth Cummings, Neil Frazer, David Keeling, Adrienne Richards and David Usher, embarked on an adventure to capture their impressions of the spectacular landscape of the famous “Heysen Trail”, a 1200 kilometre walking trail, in South Australia. The Heysen is one of the great long distance walks in the world. It extends from Cape Jervis on the south coast of the Fleurieu Peninsula south of Adelaide to Parachilna Gorge in the northern Flinders Ranges. 

First published in Trust News, Australia, November 2008.

“painting en plein air – everything dissolved into just trying to make some kind of response to the most amazing landscape – even if it was the response of a stranger.” Euan Macleod.

The trail was constructed during the 1970s and 1980s and takes its name after German born Sir Hans Heysen (1877-1968), the renowned artist recognised for his paintings and watercolours of the Australian bush that so popularised the Flinders Ranges. Heysen’s home and studio ‘The Cedars’ is located on the trail near Hahndorf in the Adelaide Hills and was a fascinating stop over on this artistic tour. Artist Leo Robba, convened this special art trip with adventuring company, World Expeditions. It’s the third such adventure Robba and the touring company have organised for a group of artist friends, to travel to remote areas of Australia and immerse themselves in the landscape to paint and draw and develop an exhibition of their works. “The artists involved in this expedition and exhibition are primarily a close knit group of friends sharing an experience, travelling, painting, drawing, drinking and eating and laughing around the campfire, coming together with a common love of art,” said Robba.

At the crack of dawn artists stumbled out of swags quickly followed by easels, sketch pads, cameras and paint palettes tumbling out tents.

An itinerary was specially set to cover the most scenic locations for this art expedition. Some of the best sections of the Heysen Trail in the Flinders Ranges were combined with the more remote and spectacular peaks, pristine wilderness areas, rugged ridges and forests of Cypress Pine in the Gammon Ranges. The ranges offer some of the finest scenery anywhere in the world and the combination of spectacular peaks, rugged gorges and the rich colours of the desert offered the artists a stunning visual palette.

The group was fully supported throughout the trip with a professional crew providing camps, informed guidance and transport in 4WD vehicles. This allowed each artist sole concentration and study of the landscape they had come to observe, paint and draw. At the crack of dawn artists stumbled out of swags quickly followed by easels, sketch pads, cameras and paint palettes tumbling out tents. As the group made camp in and amongst the landscape they were able to rise early each morning to capture the extraordinary colours and light that would unfold before them. “I was surprised at the intensity of the competition among the group,” says Lucy Culliton.

“After a big night round the campfire drinking and listening to classic vinyl records on David Usher’s portable player, I’d wake at dawn and look up to see Euan already painting, Chris (Reg) drawing and to their side Leo at the easel. I started preparing my paints the night before!” she said.

Leo Robba and ceramist Adreinne Richards travelled from the lower Blue Mountains, NSW for this tour. Lucy Culliton from the Monaro Plains near Canberra. Euan Macleod, Reg Mombassa and Neil Frazer from Sydney’s inner west. They were joined by ceramist David Usher from Brisbane, David Keeling, painter and printmaker from Tasmania and Elisabeth Cummings one of Australia’s most respected senior landscape artists, from regional New South Wales.

On The Heysen Trail exhibition is more than simple representations of the Australian landscape by this leading group of artists. It is the making and bonding of friendship and sharing of artistic practice in a unique and challenging environment all while gaining a deeper understanding of nature and the land. Each artist has emerged from the art tour with individual responses and experiences some of which developing into a wider body of work beyond the exhibition at S.H. Ervin Gallery. Four artists from the group tour in May are returning to the Flinders Ranges to further their study and practice. On The Heysen Trail features work from all nine artists in a variety of paints, works on paper, (watercolours, gouache, charcoals, coloured pencils) and ceramics.

The exhibition celebrates S.H. Ervin Gallery’s 30th anniversary year. Special events include a Public Program of Artist Talks each Sunday at 3pm, artist’s workshops for children and adults and an evening slide presentation from World Expeditions. Money raised through the sale of works will assist the Gallery’s ongoing exhibition and education programming.

On the Heysen Trail, S.H. Ervin Gallery, The Rocks, Sydney 14 November – 21 December. Open Tuesday – Sunday 11am until 5pm. Visit www.nsw.nationaltrust.org.au T: 02 9258 0173.

Beyond the Heysen Trail, Parachilna Gorge to Haddon Corner

After completing the Heysen Trail a group of eight walkers continued beyond Parachilna Gorge. We walked through the upper Flinders along Warrawena, Hamilton Creek to Terrapina water hole, climbed over Mt Babbage, across the Stony Dessert plains to Mt Hopeless.

Map of walk from Parachilna Gorge to Haddon CornerWe followed the Strzelecki Creek across the Strzelecki Desert to Innamincka. We were fortunate to walk this section after rains when the sand dunes were ablaze with wild flowers and birds. From Innamincka we walked along Cooper Creek to the famous Burke and Wills Dig Tree.

By this stage our group was depleted but a few of us continued up along the SA/Queensland border for nearly 200 kilometres to Haddon Corner, the north-eastern tip of our state. During this section it was just as hard for the back-up vehicles as previously as we encountered running creeks and dry creeks, sandy hills and stony deserts. On two different occasions north of Cooper Creek we were flooded out by heavy rains. The first time we waited a couple of days then continued our journey. The second occasion there was an enormous storm and after waiting 48 hours we aborted the trip to try again later.

By 20th May, 2008, only two of the original walkers reached Haddon Corner. They were Gail Rees and myself.

It would have been impossible to complete this journey without our experienced and capable back-up drivers, Neville Sharley and Des Barnett, with their ever-reliable vehicles. Thanks also to our supporting walkers who us through various sections. They are Colin Beer, Thelma Anderson, Ron Robinson, Fay Harding, Joan Beer, Ann Hammond, Barbara Rundle, Joan Willis and Fran Lucas.

Doug Leane

Douglas Gepp Leane, Honorary Member of the Friends of the Heysen Trail, and long time maintenance Section Leader, passed away on 16th December, 2008 at the age of 82.

Doug was a Section Leader for over 20 years, first between Piccadilly and Norton Summit, and later in the Section from Cudlee Creek to Bethany.

Bushwalking was a major passion in Doug’s life, and he walked trails in many countries around the world, as well as in Australia. He was also a volunteer for a number of different causes, which led him to become involved in the maintenance of the Trail, from as early as 1987. He was a Section Leader for over 20 years, first between Piccadilly and Norton Summit, and later in the Section from Cudlee Creek to Bethany. Doug was our most regular volunteer, working with a small team each Thursday. I was lucky to be part of that team for about 10 years, and Doug often expressed the view that he enjoyed working as much as walking.

Doug Leane

Doug Leane

A qualified carpenter and joiner, Doug was in charge of a number of building projects on the Trail, most notably the Rossiter Hut in the Pewsey Vale forest restored from a disused shepherd’s hut, and a number of suspension bridges in the Myponga area.

Most of Doug’s working life was with the South Australian Railways, and apart from service with the RAAF during WWII, lived his whole life in the same house in Thebarton. His other interests included music, the Historical Society of SA and Parklands Association, and sport, especially cricket as a long time member of SACA.

Other tributes to Doug are included in this issue of Trailwalker and on the Friends’s website, and an excellent profile on Doug by Jo Chesher was included in our Summer 2005 edition, which is also available on the website.

Doug will be remembered with affection by all those who knew and worked with him.

Frederick Brooks

Frederick George Brooks, Honorary Member of the Friends of the Heysen Trail, and long time maintenance Section Leader, passed away on 8th June, 2009 at the age of 89.

Frederick Brooks

Frederick Brooks

Fred had always been a keen bushwalker, and in 1979, with workmates Bill Gordon and Peter Buttery and their wives, established the Common Venturers walking group within part of the then Weapons Research Establishment at Salisbury. (This group celebrated their 30th anniversary at a recent walk).

In 1983, when Terry Lavender advertised for walking clubs to assist in the development of the Heysen Trail, Fred and Peter played an active role in all the discussions and planning which lead to the formation of the Friends of the Heysen Trail, and both were members of the Interim Council of the Friends when our organisation was established in 1986.

Fred’s main interest was in the Building and Maintenance Committee, and when it was decided to divide the Trail into sections for further development and maintenance, Fred assisted by the CVs, took over as Leader of the Section from Cudlee Creek to Bethany. At that stage the Trail was not fully marked, and the story of the final marking of this Section was recorded by Fred in Trailwalker No 6, in August 1987.

A qualified instrument maker, Fred used his practical skills in devising ingenious ways to simplify the work, and was involved in a number of building projects on the Trail.

A qualified instrument maker, Fred used his practical skills in devising ingenious ways to simplify the work, and was involved in a number of building projects on the Trail. The final one was the bridge in the Warren CP, for which he did the majority of the organising and drawing of plans. The bridge was assembled at Kidman Park and transported to the site where it remains one of the few bridges that hasn’t been washed away. Unfortunately ill-health prevented Fred from returning to see the completed structure when he was forced to retire from his work on the trail.

Born in Scotland, Fred saw active service with the Royal Navy in WWII, and worked for Ferranti there before emigrating to Australia in 1960 when he joined WRE. His other interests were with the Elizabeth and Districts Soccer Association, and in cricket as a long time member of SACA.

Tributes to Fred include an excellent profile by Jo Chesher in our Spring 2006 edition of Trailwalker, which is available on the Friends’ website. Fred will be remembered with affection by all those who knew and worked with him.

Fred is survived by his daughter and three sons, with their families including ten grandchildren. We extend our sympathy to the whole family.

Diamonds of the Heysen Trail

My friend, Sallie and I, regular long distance trail walkers, set out at the beginning of July to make an assault on the first 250 km of the Heysen Trail. The intent was to do the first 5 days and the last day on full packs with the rest done on day packs staying at local facilities and having our big packs moved in between.

Sallie & Sue near Echunga

Sallie & Sue near Echunga

We learned about walking this way after completing a long distance walk with Auswalk in January of this year, which lets us walk for a longer than usual distance without the weight of the full pack.

We made contact with Simon from Victor Harbor Taxis at Victor Harbor. What a diamond we found in him and I wanted to share with others the help Simon gave us and for others who were interested (especially interstate and international walkers) to make the Heysen Trail walk easier on the back Simon has done a considerable amount of the Heysen Trail and was helpful in our planning. He understands walkers and their needs. He has great local knowledge as well as the requirements of walkers. What better ally could a walker want!

Our original plan was somewhat changed when on the reaching ‘the end of Tunkalilla Beach’ we spent 1½ hours looking for the marker to exit the beach! So exhausted after this adventure, then climbing that very big hill and looking forward to camp at Balquhidder West, and then discovering it was nothing more than a driveway into a property without any flat ground to pitch a tent, we decided that exiting a couple of days earlier on full packs might be the answer. We climbed the hill to get a phone signal and Simon, our knight in shining armour collected us from the campsite, dropped us at the Colonial Inn in Victor Harbor 2 days earlier than the original plan and we lapped up the luxury of a shower, a bed and a non camp meal that evening.

Simon picked us up the next morning, delivering us back to the point of pick up last night and we walked back to Waitpinga. Simon continued this great shuttle service for the next two days while we made our way to Victor Harbor.

Leaving Victor Harbor, Simon dropped us back on the track and continued on delivering our main packs to Rattley’s at Pear Tree Hollow at Inman Valley, where we discovered another diamond of the Heysen Trail. Bruce from Rattley’s picked us up in the driving rain and hail where the track meets the road about 5 km from his bed and breakfast facility.

We were so glad to see SA get some much needed rain, and at times it made our adventure much more than a simple walking adventure!

Rattley’s is a beautiful bed and breakfast cottage at Inman Valley and the hosts Bruce and Fay were sensational catering to our every need. Being unable to secure accommodation for one night only at Myponga, we spent 2 nights with Bruce and Fay, with Bruce picking us up from Myponga and giving us a guided tour of the area before arriving back at the cottage. What amazing service!

Bruce dropped us back at Myponga the next day and at no cost moved our main packs to Mt. Compass. Our great knight in shining armour, Simon, met with us again moving our main packs from Mt. Compass to Villa Grenache at McLaren Flat. The terrible weather ensured there would be no outdoor camping for us; if it wasn’t flooded it was soggy and with no shelter anywhere to be dry or even cook a small meal, we opted for luxury instead of the original plan! We were so glad to see SA get some much needed rain, and at times it made our adventure much more than a simple walking adventure! We did wonder at this point what the Deep Creek crossing was like. We had crossed it a week earlier, knee deep and running fast and after the days of deluge how the crossing would be for any walkers out there at that point!

High rainfallColin from Villa Grenache met us at the Kuitpo HQ and we spent the afternoon enjoying McLaren Vale and some more great hospitality from SA. Colin took us back to Kuitpo the next day and did not charge us for the extra running around; another diamond of the Heysen. Our experience of tourism operators in the Fleurieu area has been nothing short of sensational.

Simon, our amazing knight from Victor Harbor arranged for our taxi service for moving our gear to change to Mt. Barker taxis as they were much closer than Victor Harbor from here on. We felt some sadness at this change, as Simon had been such an inspiration and Mr. Amazing to us and we knew we would miss his smiley face, trail knowledge and inspiration. But Mt. Barker taxis continued to do the great job that Simon had started, providing great pickups for us and our gear.

Our next section was to Mylor and what looked straight forward was anything but as the rain and hail continued to come down. The bridge over troubled water turned out to be the bridge under troubled water! Then what appeared as simple creek crossings over the roads, turned out to be 5 metre wide, raging waters and unknown depth crossings, requiring some alternative routes to be found. After much searching we found a sizeable secure log to crawl over on all fours and after negotiating our way back to the track discovered we had to cross the same creek again 100 metres further on.

After some serious bush bashing through blackberry bushes we eventually found a narrow enough crossing (still depth unknown, but deeper than trek poles) and built our own bridge and then found the kangaroo crossing under the fence to get back on to the track. But alas, the day’s adventure was not over yet. Now, there was some serious gun fire very close to the track and despite our yelling out, it continued. We were glad to finally have the track turn away from the firing and then discovered a few kilometres later that this was a police firing range area. It would have been great to know that earlier! Hint: put in a sign at the other end of the firing range that it exists.We finally arrived in Mylor looking like very bedraggled drowned rats and our wet weather gear looking like it would never look dry again.

Our accommodation that night was at Binnowee B & B, where we again experienced great SA hospitality. Our packs were there waiting for us, kindly dropped there during the day by Mt. Barker Taxis. Binnowee has an upmarket side and for those on a budget, there is a converted shed, which was simply sensational and we highly recommend it. Very comfortable, our wet gear dried and the breakfast was fantastic.

The next day saw glimpses of sunshine as we made our way to Mt. Lofty and a luxurious night at Mt. Lofty House. Despite the bad reports we had about this facility, our experience was sensational; food and service were both great. Our packs had again been delivered by Mt. Barker Taxis and we left them there for pick up the next day on the way to picking us up from Moores Road. The original plan was to meet the taxi and swap packs, but the weather had been so unkind, and there being no shelter at the campsites, we made a plan B.

We again experienced a different than planned adventure for the day, as we discovered the track was closed and

not a sign anywhere to offer a different route for the long distance walkers. Relying on the maps we found our way to Moores Road, however, were in a different spot than the prearranged place the taxi was to meet us. As with all things pre-arranged there is, of course, always concern of what happens if it doesn’t work to the plan. We were able to get a phone signal out to tell them we had arrived, but were closer than the pre-arranged place. The taxi arrived and said he couldn’t see us. Alas, there is a gate on the road, not marked on the map and we had to walk a little way to meet him. Just another adventure! Hint: get the gate marked on the map.

Our driver then took us to Cudlee Creek Caravan Park where we would spend the last two nights of our trip.

Mt. Barker Taxis duly arrived on time the next morning, to drop us back at Moores Road and we continued to walk our way back to Cudlee Creek.

What an awesome adventure we had. But, the adventure would not have been the same without the amazing diamonds we discovered. Simon, from Victor Harbor/Peninsula Taxis, experienced Heysen walker and taxi service provider extraordinaire; Bruce, host numero uno of the Fleurieu; Colin, host outstanding in McLaren Flat and the Mt. Barker taxi service. We were welcomed everywhere we went, and questioned about our sanity walking in such conditions, but we would repeat it in a heartbeat and will hopefully be back next year for the next 250 kms and see what adventures that will bring.

 

An Obsession and Never Ending Story

I joined the Friends of the Heysen 20 years ago, and from the start was interested in trail maintenance. I could not at that time take on a maintenance section due to business commitments, so volunteered to work on an ad hoc basis, notably when there was a full time FoHT Manager, who would telephone for volunteers.

Why does one persevere? Well, it’s certainly obsessive, and it’s true that one develops a strong sense of ownership.

My wife Lee and I planted many trees during the Kapunda greening project, and I had a great desire to take on the long neglected Flinders Ranges sections, only recently filled by our present Maintenance Coordinator, Gavin Campbell.

Kevin Liddiard

Kevin Liddiard

In my endeavour to walk the entire Heysen trail I joined the Millennium Walkers in 2000 (later renamed End to End 1); but having already completed much of the trail through to the mid north, I walked ahead solo, arriving at Section 14 (Spalding to Georgetown) in 2002. This section had not been maintained since first marking, and looked easy, so I volunteered. Bad move!

I soon found that there were few posts and serviceable stiles, and virtually no readable marker plates throughout the entire 70km section. In some places there were no markers for long distances due to re-fencing and deterioration, and what markers were there were now non-standard.

There were stiles without fences and fences without stiles.

Subsequently, I and my helpers have installed some 50 posts, up to 500 marker plates, even more trail decals, and the job is never ending.

I am, of course, aware that much of the section is privately owned and the rest government owned; however let’s not forget that we, individual South Australians, are the true owners of the latter.

Section 14 covers four distinct regions: the Bundaleer Channel, Never-Never Creek, Bundaleer Forest, and a creek and ridge top walk to Georgetown. Maintenance along the Bundaleer Channel and in Bundaleer Forest is relatively easy; but the other areas are more remote, difficult to access, and are subject to cattle and sheep destruction of posts and markers. Posts sometimes disappear, perhaps as souvenirs, but presumably not firewood since they are treated for attack by fungi and termites.

Kevin Liddiard, new stile Bundaleer Forest

Kevin Liddiard, new stile Bundaleer Forest

My poor 4WD ability was evident when I used the family Toyota Hilux to install a number of new posts in remote areas of the section. I very nearly slid off Campbell Hill into the Bundaleer pine forest, so gave up that approach and returned to backpacking posts and plates. I thought I had the section under control, only to find that sheep and cattle take a regular toll of posts and markers, and farmers, quite rightly, re-fence and do other necessary activities on their properties that affect trail marking. Good relations with owners are essential, so one just gets on with the job.

This year I found that a wind farm was in the planning, and if this goes ahead there will be a major remark of the trail. During October I walked through the section with End to End 3 and found that since an inspection last year several stiles now needed repair, cattle had destroyed a creek crossing, tall grass obscured markers, and one post was hidden in a feral olive tree. Two posts were missing and one post had been run over (literally) in Bundaleer Forest. Numerous deteriorated plates were repaired, but there is obviously a large work list for 2010.

Why does one persevere? Well, it’s certainly obsessive, and it’s true that one develops a strong sense of ownership. I am, of course, aware that much of the section is privately owned and the rest government owned; however let’s not forget that we, individual South Australians, are the true owners of the latter. That’s why it’s called public property!

Credits are due to my wife Lee, who has tolerated my obsession with the Heysen Trail, and has been driver and self-proclaimed Camp Follower for End to End walks and trail maintenance; my son Chris who can actually drive a 4WD in hostile places; and Gavin Bowden, my co-maintainer, who has been away this year on holiday but has a lot of work to do in 2010.

Paying Homage to Old Pat

The history of the Heysen trail begins in 1932, according to an article written by Warren Bonython in the Trailwalker in 1989.

The Flinders Ranges became the landscape of this particular bushwalker’s dreams and set his feet on the epic journey along the ancient ridges and rocky gorges described in his book “Walking the Flinders Ranges”.

In 1932, with Australia in the grip of the great depression, Hans Heysen painted “In the land of the Oratunga” – a dramatic image of Mt Patawarta. Thirty years later the purple and orange water-colour hues of the far northern Flinders Ranges caught the eye of the restless Bonython and an interest was kindled. The Flinders Ranges became the landscape of this particular bushwalker’s dreams and set his feet on the epic journey along the ancient ridges and rocky gorges described in his book “Walking the Flinders Ranges”.

Warren’s enthusiasm was still burning throughout the decade of the seventies when he chaired the long range walking trail committee. Choosing a name was a challenge, but from the landscape of memory Warren Bonython had a wonderful suggestion. “The Land of the Oratunga” is held in the collection of the South Australian Art Gallery but is not currently on display. However that chance viewing in the 1960’s provides it with an added significance in the cultural history of our state. It also displays the power of landscape to change lives. It should be called the painting that launched a million feet.

In the spirit of Warren Bonython a group of 5 walkers who have crossed the final stile at Parachilna paid homage to Mt Patawarta in July 2009, as part of an ongoing pilgrimage along the northern Flinders. I have taken to calling this journey, with its intention of walking to the end of the Flinders Ranges at Mt Hopeless, “Beyond the Heysen”.

In 2002, a group led by Mark Darter reached Mt Hopeless, and in 2006 another group under Nick Langsford began the journey proving the broad allure of these rugged ranges. Despite the allure, this will never become a marked trail since it is simply too remote and difficult to access. Our small group received permission from the station owners to walk from Parachilna to Angepena, across Narrina pound. However it was with some expectation that we approached Mt Patawarta on the second day. It only just tops 1000 metres but stands unchallenged along the southern wall of Narrina pound like a shark’s tooth. As you pass through Patawarta gap it looms like a crusader castle over your right shoulder, and the further you penetrate the pound the more dramatic it becomes.

Any thoughts that it might offer an easy ascent were dispelled by a late afternoon foray which left us on the wrong side of a deep gully staring at the stately made stone cairn. Best approached from the north east we chose a more challenging route requiring rock climbs to storm its ramparts. We reached the crest by mid morning and from its stately citadel, in the company of eagles, we could gaze upon the length of the range from Wilpena to the Gammons.

Old Pat stood as our proud beacon to the south for the next 3 days as we moved north, and every time we glanced behind we knew we were in the Land of the Oratunga.